Discovering Emidio Pepe Wines

While shopping around for a wine dinner centered on vintage wines from the 80s, we happened upon a phenomenon that apparently many wine geeks are already aware of: Emidio Pepe. As owners of a California wine store, the expected move for us would be to bring an age worthy California Cabernet (yes, they do exist) and we did just that for our first wine. As predictable as it may have been, the 1986 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet was indescribably delicious, in peak drinking condition, and the wine of the night all around. But that was too easy.

We summarily dismissed Bordeaux, Barolo, and Burgundy as just too typical for our second selection. We even resisted a 1980s López de Heredia white because it seems like every wine hipster out there gets off on singing the praises of Lopez de Heredia and there's no challenge in that.

Not ready to give in, we spied a range of 80s vintage wines from a producer unknown to us, Emidio Pepe.

Brunello-Gate

You may have heard chatter that some producers of the well-respected wine from Italy, Brunello di Montalcino, are doing what no self-respecting Brunello producer would do -- using grapes from outside of the region of Montalcino in Tuscany, including foreign grapes such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. True Brunello di Montalcino is made from 100% Sangiovese grapes and the name translates literally to “Brunello (a nickname of sorts for Sangiovese) from Montalcino.”

The American government, concerned about the fleecing of U.S. consumers, has scheduled a meeting with the Italian Agricultural Minister to try and work out a resolution before instituting an outright import ban on the wine.

Considering Americans throw back approximately 25% of all the Brunello on the market, the Italians may want to skip the aperitivo and get right to the bargaining table.

First complete Ornellaia vertical EVER in the U.S.

Ever want to know what wine writers do behind the scenes? Well too bad, because we are going to show you anyway. In an attempt to clear out a backlog of wine related mumbo jumbo, your favorite winemonkey was able to dig up this diamond in the rough. Salute!


ORNELLAIA VERTICAL NOTES
(First complete Ornellaia vertical EVER in the U.S.)
Hosted by Leonardo Raspini, technical director & agronomist
3/13/07

General Notes
• Started very Italian
• Moved to BDX when Rolland came in (from LB to RB/Garagiste)
• Moved to more modern CA, forward style in more recent years
• More “Parkerized” with Tannin winning over Acid

1985 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
Made in Antinori family cellar
15,000 bottles
12-16 mos oak
Vines planted 1982
We liked it – stars for both of us
(J) Mint, damp earth, autumn leaves, tobacco, age, cherry, black tea, toast
Great complexity, zesty acidity, very layered, a lot of acid on finish, pretty, A, A, B+
(T) Firm, tight palate, zingy acidity, aged character, Italian edge, lean, minty, damp earth, peaking now, beautiful nose, pretty aromas, opens up black tea/earl grey, amazing

1986 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
Out of magnum – made a difference/helped
Made in Antinori family cellar
16-17 mos. Oak
Weather – dry at end of season
(J) dried fruit, prune/plum, rich, lots of good acidity over green, concentrated fruit, chocolate on finish, deep, dark, more oak, drinks better with time in glass, B+
(T) nutty, tobacco, mint opening up nicely, little green on palate, young vines still here, past peak - drying

1987 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
From ’87 on in San Guido Cellar
More Merlot in blend
(J) Gritty, chocolate, brine on nose. Sweet fruit, tobacco, spice, good acid, concentrated fruit, long tobacco finish, dry tannin, mint, exotic, B, B+, B+?
(T) Tad corked? Was it weather? Darker, extracted, age showing, almost amarone/port, deep, good rich palate but softer, long finish, PIPE TOBACCO, dry

1988 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
Slightly corked
(J) coffee, damp earth, cherry, some must on nose. Cherry, little must, drying tannin but acidity does come through, pretty, tobacco, dried leaves, dried out, pp, NR
(T) corked? A little funk? Dried out, questionable

1989 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
Weather not so good
Out of magnum
(J) I like this style bug headed downhill now. Sweet, toasty, earthy on nose. Charred, different on palate. Burnt flavors get in the way, tight, grippy, still some fruit in magnum, probably gone in 750, B+/PP
(T) firm, tight, decent grip, sweeter nose than previous wines, ripe, good intensity, a little burnt “Hamburger says”, finish a little burn?, smokey, char, past peak, drying out, drink now

1990 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
$300
ROLLAND COMES ON THE SCENE, winemaker change
(J) Coffee, cherry mint, pipe tobacco on nose. Pretty, smooth palate with citrus-like acidity, vanilla, oak, attractive, not as dark on palate as some others, not as lush maybe but elegant, def. drying out but nice now. Star for me. A, B+, A, PP
(T) Ripe, rich, peppermint oil, really nice, more oak on palate

1991 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
CORKED, NR

1992 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
$150
138,000 bottles
Demonstrates the vineyards according to Raspini
(J) Ripe, richer, ground coffee, good fruit on nose. Rich coffee, a little green on finish. Hole in middle? No depth/complexity, lacks character, acid overwhelms, dry/astringent. B+, B, B.
(T) Plain Jane, same ripe style, something missing/hole in it, complexity is down, acid is up, a bit nervy, B+, B, B+

1993 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
(J) Bordeaux styling (Pauillac/St. Julien!), coffee, rich, sweet fruit on nose. Led pencil, tobacco, classic BDX on palate. Very drinkable, I like it, starred it, but where is Italian terroir? A, A, B+
(T) Nice wine, shoe polish, carnation, good acid, better than ’92, BDX in style, St. Julien

1994 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
STYLE CHANGE
170 or 190,000 bottles
91% CS, 14% M, 5% CF
(J) Brighter fruit, vanilla, ripe, more “modern”, rounder, less personality thu middle, depth? “Pape Clement”, B+, B, B+
(T) Creamy, candied, nut, rich, deep, rounder than the rest


1995 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
$250
200,000+ bottles
’95 and older merlot 15 – 17%
(J) Fresh, very dark fruit, blue/black berry, ink, vanilla, gritty tannin, huge but w/ good acid to back It up, B+, B, B+
(T) rich, creamy and forward style, some zing in nose, softer in front, good something with high acidity

1996 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
$225
(J) Led pencil, nice berry fruit, big, grippy, dark, earthy, tannins take over acid, chocolate, rich finish, dense, tough to judge, B+?
(T) Similar nose to ‘93, shoe polish, musty? Soft in front again, comes up at the end with grip

1997 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
$275
Selections cut back starting with 1997 – second label introduced
(J) blue fruit, fresh, vanilla, ripe, jammy, acid & alcohol, heady, crowd wower, easy to go back to, CA style, B+ or A?
(T) Style change again?, completely different, rich but “green”, spicy, Italian, a lot in there

1998 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
$200
(J) dark berry, sweet fruit, needs time, layers, BDX style again, really nice on 2nd taste, huge tanning, oak, better than 1998 for me, star, B+ to A peak
(T) same style as ’97 perhaps “richer” good nose want to drink from the nose, BDX like again

1999 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
(J) Good fruit, complete wine, rich, concentrated, toast, black berry, good depth, Italian spice returns, good stuff, found, power & elegance, big, give it time, peak A, star from me
(T) still tight, young, not ready, save, really nice

2000 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
$225
(J) licorice, dark fruit, some mint, plush, forward but well balanced, approachable, designed wine, tannin present, B, B, A?
(T) ripe, plush, forward, stull good something, and firm/tight.

2001 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
$160
(J) Italian spice back, more red fruit, round, forward, toast, good structure but is it green on the finish, B+
(T) Tighter, firm, ripe, plush frame, good structure, the most Italian of recent vintages

2002 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
$160
(J) Extracted, contrived, this is what people mean when they say “made in the winery”, forward, what else can you say? No depth. B
(T) Extracted, man-made, yet tad green, B+, B, B+

2003 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
$150
(J) designed, forward, fruity, vanilla, lacks depth, sweet fruit, still get green on end, a little weird on finish, B+, B, B
(T)Ripe, plush, forward, homogenized

2004 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
NOT YET RELEASED
(J) good fruit, nice ripeness, not over or under ripe, good acid, B+ or A for Peak Grade
(T) great vintage, ripe, brambly (obviously) yet good, strengthened (?) with good acid

2004 Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia
Bolgheri, Italy
3/13/07
SECOND WINE
(J) Cheesy, earthy, black fruit
(T) good intensity but cheese and green flavors

While We Are On The Subject of Prosecco...

Vino Girl was asked to open a bottle of Prosecco last night for some thirsty holiday revelers. Since it was decidedly not Paris Hilton's new Prosecco-in-a-can, I went to grab a towel to put around the neck of the bottle. That is when I noticed that the bottle was not sealed with a typical mushroom Champagne cork but with a regular wine cork. I don’t recall ever noticing that before. I was a little nervous about taking somebody’s eye out so I moved away from the crowd with the bottle and a corkscrew. The Prosecco opened quite easily and the cork didn’t fly out of the bottle or anything dodgy like that. It was your basic fun, light, festive bubbly. I looked into the cork situation because sometimes you just have to know. Apparently when Prosecco is frizzante (lightly fizzy) versus spumante (very fizzy, more bubbles) it is sometimes safely bottled with a regular cork. Who knew?

Five Fun Facts About Prosecco:

Prosecco is a sparkling wine from the Veneto region of Italy.

Prosecco is the name of the grape.

The best Prosecco comes from the area of Conegliano Valdobbiadene -- look for it on the bottle.

Prosecco is generally less complex, with less alcohol, than Champagne from France.

The process that creates the bubbles in Champagne is done right in the bottle whereas for Prosecco the process is done in a big steel tank.

Brunello history at Biondi Santi

Unfortunately for us, Biondi Santi’s amazing history in the production of Brunello is much more impressive than their appointment taking skills. Apparently, the woman I spoke with to book our appointment and tasting was on maternity leave when we arrived in Italy. Wiped from the books and without an appointment, we waited and waited for our turn to taste these great wines.

The beautiful grounds of the Biondi Santi estate are not a bad place to relax and wait so we found ourselves in no terrible hurry. Finally, we were ushered into the cellar by a congenial tour guide that, regrettably, did not speak a lick of English. He pointed, we shrugged, and we all struggled to understand. Finally, we were met by an English-speaking woman who gave us a taste of the 2001 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino. It was good, but that is all we tasted. Happily, we were not charged a fee for our “tour and tasting.”

Anyway, the history goes something like this. Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, in the 1860s, planted a special breed of Sangiovese known as Brunello or Sangiovese Grosso. The clone was attractive because it had smaller berries that would presumably produce more concentrated flavors. In addition, the clone was more resistant to Phylloxera, an insect destructive to grapes vines at their roots. Ferruccio replanted his entire vineyard with the new clone and, viola, Brunello di Montalcino was born. He also decided to age the wines in oak and in bottle before releasing them which at the time was unheard of because Italians enjoyed light, young red wines.

The wines are still today made in an old-school style where ageing is required to fully enjoy them. The fruit is somewhat behind the other characteristics, and the acidity is distinctly decipherable. I like the style very much but it is not for everyone. I certainly can’t say it was the best tasting of the day, but we did visit a place where wine history was made. Not bad for a Thursday afternoon!

Poliziano in Montepulciano

I have been remiss in my Tuscany updates of late but without further adieu let’s take a visit to Poliziano winery in Montepulciano. We were scheduled for a tour, lunch and tasting at Poliziano and, surprise, surprise, we were on ‘Italian time’ and late for both. We called ahead to let them know we were on our way and they were more than happy to accommodate. In fact, the spunky female voice on the phone turned out to be our tour guide, Margherita, the official and uncontested “tour guide of the trip.”

Margherita had arranged for our lunch and tasting to precede the tour because — god forbid — we missed lunch. (Just another reason you gotta love the Italians!) The spread of cured meats, beautiful cheeses and a fresh and colorful salad was brought out and passed around as Margherita explained everything we were to stuff in our gullets. The procession of wines were, of course, perfectly matched to the specific meats and cheeses from the everyday Rosso and Vino Nobile to the single vineyard Vino Nobile Ausinone. We were no strangers to salty meats and cheese by this, our seventh day in Tuscany, but the Poliziano feast was somehow superior.

Margherita is studying to become a Master Sommelier and you could feel her passion for wine and knowledge as well as her eagerness to please. Her coworker had failed to show up for work so she was simultaneously working our table of laypersons and an adjacent table of importers from Czechoslovakia. The good news for us was that the Czechs failed to finish some of the “special” wine they were being served from the new vineyard in Maremma as well as their vin santo and prune tart. We were to be the happy recipients of their leftovers. "Shhhhhhh," Margherita whispered as she ushered the professionals out the door.

All the wines were outstanding. Perhaps they had an edge because we tasted them with food but no matter. I would recommend trying anything from this relatively young (1961) estate with a traditional style. The single vineyard wine came home with Vino Girl.

Poliziano Rosso Montepulciano ($12 - $15) Montepulciano, 80% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot, 250,000 Production

Poliziano Vino Nobile Montepulciano ($25 - $30) Montepulciano, 85% Sangiovese, 15% Colorino, Canaiolo and Merlot, 150 – 180,000 Production

Poliziano Asinone Vino Nobile Montepulciano (NA in US but about $45 from Italy) Montepulciano, 100% Sangiovese Only in the best years, 20 – 40,000 production

Poliziano Le Stanze ($40 - $45) Montepulciano, 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20,000 production

Poliziano Mandrone di Lohsa ($35) Maremma, 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 10% Alicante 10, 15,000 production

Avignonesi of Montepulciano

Thursday was a major wine tasting day in Tuscany – Vino Girl had scheduled two wineries in Montepulciano and two in Montalcino successively. Since there was to be so much driving involved, we decided it was best to spare ourselves the agony of two designated drivers and get someone to cart our buzzed up bodies around the precarious Tuscan roads. We belted ourselves into an 8-seater van and entrusted our lives for the day to Sebastian, our suave Italian driver.

Our first stop was Avignonesi winery in Montepulciano, almost directly south of our villa in Gaiole in Chianti. Avignonesi consists of four wine-producing estates: Le Capezzine, I Poggetti, La Selva and La Lombarda and we arrived at Le Capezzine a smidge late due to our cappuccino and bombolino (Italian donut) run with Sebastian. All worth it to wake us up and get some food in our stomachs.

Lorenza, our guide, was waiting for us at the gate with the other folks in our group rearing to go. She was very serious about wine — in a charming way of course — and showed us around the beautiful vineyards and explained Avignonesi’s philosophy and techniques in vivid detail. The most fortuitous feature of the tour was that we showed up at the exact time the grapes for the famed Vin Santo were laying to dry on straw mats in the drying room. This was a beautiful and rare site to behold.

Avignonesi is one of the most highly lauded makers of Vin Santo in all of Tuscany and they take the business of making this sweet “holy wine” very seriously. There was a lot of solemn talk about ‘The Mother’ which is the precious sediment that contains the yeasts that make Avignonesi Vin Santo possible. Avignonesi is one of the few estates to make a red as well as a white Vin Santo. Sadly, we were unable to taste either as both are very expensive and very rare. Even Lorenza fessed up to only ever having a very small taste of the traditional and beloved Vin Santo.

After the tour, we sat down for a tasting of Avignonesi wines including: 2006 Cortona Sauvignon Blanc ($11), 2004 Rosso di Montepulciano ($14), 2003 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Grandi Annate Riserva ($55), and 2000 50/50 ($95).

The white was a big hit and we bought some to sip pool side at the Villa later in the week. The Rosso was basic but a good everyday drinking red (isn’t that was Rosso should be?) and the Vino Nobile Grandi Annate was something special. The 2003 needs some time but already displays the earthiness and minerality that we found to be a signature of Sangiovese from Montepulciano (AKA Sangiovese Grosso or Prugnolo Gentile) in comparison to Sangiovese from the Chianti region. The 50/50 is an IGT Tuscan which is a collaboration between Avignonesi and the Capannelle estate in Chianti. Avignonesi provides the Merlot and Capannelle the Sangiovese for the 50/50 blend. The wine is rounder and more forward than the Vino Nobile but smooth and silky with intriguing fruit and spice.

At the end of our tasting we found ourselves in high spirits but, naturally, late for our next appointment. Back to the van! “Veloce!” says Sebastian, and off we go. Word to The Mother.

Barone Ricasoli - Brolio

Our visit to Barone Ricasoli was somewhat of a surprise – a pleasant one. For a winery that is one of the largest producers of Chianti Classico and that was at one time owned by the Canadian company Seagram’s, the estate has barrels full of soul. Apparently the Ricasoli family does not like to talk about “those years” — all 20 of them — during which Ricasoli was sold to Seagram’s who in turn sold it to Hardy’s of Australia. As you can imagine, the aim quickly turned from quality to quantity, a fact that deeply saddened a family that used to be considered by some the Lafite of Tuscany.

In 1993 the Ricasoli’s were able to buy the family property back and set things on the right path once again. That was the year Francesco Ricasoli took over and, at the time, the estate was putting out a staggering 9 million bottles under 30 different labels. Francesco invested in replanting and in order to amp up the quality right away, began buying grapes from neighboring vineyards with high standards. The current production of 2 million bottles is still a whole lot of wine but it's a far cry from 9 million and the number of labels has been narrowed to six. The winery is once again receiving positive press and Francesco intends to cut back on the amount of purchased grapes as soon as his own vineyards are up to the family’s standards.

On our visit we saw some of the positive aspects of deep pocket ownership, including a “Laverne & Shirley” type bottling operation and massive storage facilities. The estate seemed to be picking their Sangiovese sooner than other producers in the Gaiole in Chianti area which we took as an attempt to cut down on over ripeness and produce an old world style Chianti. The winery facilities are beautiful and modern (some still in-progress) and the Castle above the winery, called Brolio Castle, is a quick step back to the 10th century with manicured gardens and stunning panoramic views.

Our tasting was with Sveva who assured us that although she had a German sounding name, she was 100% Italiano. Sveva was a perfect host with an impressive nose and palate, not to mention great restaurant recommendations and the like. She opened not two but three of the whites until she was satisfied with the bottle we would be tasting. (For the record, none of us noticed anything wrong with the first two.) She does not drink which just may give her a heightened awareness and advantage in tasting but she did admit that her tea-totalling status is a constant source of harassment from her friends in Siena.

We tasted the 2006 Torricella Chardonnay, the 2003 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico and the 2001 Casalferro Tuscan IGT as well as a 2006 passito (sweet wine from raisinated grapes) called Granello. We enjoyed all of the wines. The 2006 Torricella Chardonnay was fresh and fruity at about $28 per bottle. The 2003 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico is the “old school” brand (one step up from the Brolio Chianti Classico which is 100% Sangiovese) and is only made in the best vintages from Sangiovese, a dab of Cabernet and sometimes Merlot. It is rich yet elegant and was described to us as the Robert Redford of the Ricasoli wines ($35). The 2001 Castelferro ($40), which has an appropriately more modern label, is made from Sangiovese and Merlot and is more muscular and powerful. We dubbed the wine the David Beckham of the brands. The 2006 Granello was not to my taste but reminded me of very tropical Sauternes ($?).

All in all this is a reliable estate with quality wines. We had such a pleasant visit that we purchased both Robert Redford and David Beckham – I guess we’ll let them fight it out in the wine fridge! ;)

The Wines of Castello di Ama

One of the first Tuscan wineries our lucky gang of seven experienced together was Castello di Ama. The winery does not usually accept visitors outside of the trade but a helpful sales guy from one of Ama’s importers (The Sorting Table) was able to make good use of my vocation and his connections to get us an appointment.

What a treat it was! Our cheerful hostess Donatella showed us around the lovely estate, which lies in the heart of the Chianti Classico region in the commune of Gaiole in Chianti. Ama produces wine exclusively from vineyards on the estate and production totals a mere 300 – 350,000 bottles. The estate also yields an even smaller quantity of dee-licious extra virgin olive oil. Marco Pallanti, a well-respected winemaker in Tuscany, oversees the vineyards and makes the wine.

The grounds are charming — almost like a quaint Italian village — and the most interesting aspect is the focus on art. In 2000 the winery instituted Castello di Ama for Contemporary Art to bring together the idea of Art and Wine and showcase various internationals artists. There is a new art installation each year and our favorite was probably the 2001 mirror exhibit by French artist Daniel Buren which is positioned as a "window" on to the real.















“The wine, Vino Girl, what about the wine”?! Well, Donatella was very generous with the wine and we were able to taste the 2005 Al Poggio, followed by the 2001 Vigneto Bellavista and the 2003 L’Apparita. We also tasted the estate’s own olive oil (About $50 for 17 ounces) which is why I know it is dee-lish!

The 2005 Al Poggio (about $30) is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Malvasia Bianca. It’s bright, complex and enchanting and, although they do not sell wine at the estate, we promptly visited a nearby enoteca and purchased a bottle to drink with dinner.

The 2001 Vigneto Bellavista ($100 - $140) is a single vineyard, old vines Chianti Classico made of mostly Sangiovese with a dab of Malvasia Nera. This wine was my darling of the day. It is only produced in the very best vintages (1995, 1997, 1999 and 2001 of late) and is tremendously elegant with superior balance and structure. The wine is multifaceted with juicy black cherry and berries, pleasant earth tones, and layers of herbs and spices. It is silky smooth with a medium to full body and should last for years. Polished is the single best word I can use to describe it.

The 2003 L’Apparita ($175 – $200) is 100% Merlot done the Italian way. By this I mean it is not flabby in the least but clean, rich, minty and chocolaty. It is made in a more lush style than the Bellavista, but, after all, this is Merlot. Overall it is a refined wine that is still too young to fully enjoy.

The gang of seven was duly impressed with all the wines and we departed the “castle of loves” with a certain affection for the winery. In true Italian fashion, we also found out that Donatella lives in the diminutive town we hiked to the day before. I think she was nervous we might knock on her door looking for Sunday dinner!

I should mention that we also drank a bottle of the 2006 Castello di Ama Rosato the following day at lunch (in Donatella’s town.) We were not disappointed. This was one of the best Italian Roses I have ever tasted. The wine is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo and possesses a character which to me is lacking in most roses. Coupled with great freshness, acidity and ripe fruit, this is a real winner for under $15!

Chin Chin

Badia a Coltibuono

Badia a Coltibuono is right outside the village of Gaiole in Chianti and we hopped in the car and cruised up there for an 11am tour and tasting one morning. Not surprisingly, there were only two of us with the fortitude to carry on after the previous night’s feast and vino drinking — not to mention the comfy lounge chairs calling out to us from the villa’s luxurious swimming pool.

There is no actual grape growing at the estate of Badia a Coltibuono, which is an ancient monastery dating back to the 11th century. It’s too cold to grow wine grapes up there so the vineyards and winery are situated at lower altitude levels in Monti in Chianti. The estate is somewhat of a spectacle of activity with tours, tastings, restaurants, accommodations, a cooking school and direct sales of wine and olive oil. The views, however, are tremendous and the grounds sculptured and beautiful.

We were part of a guided tour, which has its drawbacks including the requisite group of loud, obnoxious Texans (no offense to the longhorn state) who are out to be heard – and be drinkin’! The tour, though, was conducted in an interesting manner and we were able to carry our generous and successive tastes of Rose, Chianti Classico and Sangioveto along with us while we explored the grounds, the ageing cellars and, finally, the rustic tasting room.

The Rose, 2006 Cetamura Rosato ($10), was a disappointment to me and a little too sweet for my taste but the crowd seemed pleased. The basic 2005 Chianti Classico ($18 - $20) was bright and fresh, forward and fruity and was drinking nicely for such a young wine. While it was not altogether exciting, it is a solid everyday drinking red if you prefer a more forward style. The 2003 Sangioveto ($65 - $70), a 100% Sangiovese labeled IGT and made from older vines, was huge and tannic but with good ripe fruit from this hot vintage. In my estimation, there are better IGT wines out there with more personality.

All in all, the tour and the wines were a little standard but a pleasant place to visit on a nice day. Chin, Chin!

Rocca di Castagnoli Wines

[The gang with Max at Rocca di Castagnoli]

Vino Girl is back from Italy (heavy sigh) and ready to report on some of the wonderful wineries I was able to visit in the exquisitely beautiful region of Tuscany. One of my favorites – and, I might add, the official “everyday drinking wine” of our villa — was Rocca di Castagnoli.

My friends discovered the winery during their initial windy, undulating drive to Villa L’Aiaccia just outside of Gaiole in Chianti. They stopped in to stock up for our first night in the villa (it’s good to have friends with foresight) and, after tasting both the reds and the whites, we became regular customers of the winery.

Rocca di Castagnoli is situated right in the center of the Chianti Classico region, atop a hill overlooking some of their vineyards. The winery building exhibits a great balance between traditional and modern touches. The winemaking and philosophy are very traditional but the tasting room and facilities are sleek and modern, providing a striking juxtaposition with the breathtaking landscape just outside the windows.

The Rocca di Castagnoli wines are all well-priced and high quality. We tasted nothing above 30 or 40 euros, which translates to roughly 40 to 55 dollars. The wines we drank everyday were about 7 euros, or under 10 dollars, and were very refined for the price. Rocca di Castagnoli is also associated with other labels, including Castello San Sano, Tenuta di Capraia, Poggio Maestrino Spiaggiole and Poggio Graffetta, through the sales firm Alimenta. Although we did not taste all of the labels, I would seek them out given the quality and care put into the Castagnoli wines.

On our final day at Villa L’Aiaccia we decided to hike up the hill and take a tour of our “local” winery. We were shown around the winery by our knowledgeable and exceedingly congenial host, Max. We concluded the tour with a tasting and more than a few laughs — a fitting ending to our stay in Gaiole. A generous taste of four wines later, we were carefully plodding our way back down the hill to enjoy our last dinner with our favorite $8 Chianti Classico (review below) .

2004 Rocca di Castagnoli Chianti Classico
The hands-down best “everyday drinking” Chianti Classico tasted on a recent trip to Tuscany. Well balanced with clean red and blue berry fruits and a pleasant earthiness. The tannins are silky and the refreshing acidity makes you want to go back for another sip. A refined wine with good depth and impressive finesse for the price. Great with food — pairs especially well with various Tuscan specialties including roast pork, mushroom risotto and cured meats. A

Bring on the Vino - Andiamo!

Well, amici, I am off to Italy on Thursday and looking forward to eating and drinking my way through Tuscany. Vino Girl starts off in Florence and then heads down to Gaiole in Chianti, where we have rented a Tuscan villa with friends.

Although I have tried to pull back somewhat on assuming responsibility for everyone’s good time (a bad habit to be sure) I have donned my Cruise Director hat and set up some wine tastings in Chianti as well as Montepulciano and Montalcino. So far the lineup includes Castello di Ama, Badia a Coltibuono, Castello di Brolio, Avignonesi, Poliziano, Biondi Santi and Castello Banfi (oh they are going to kill me!). I was lucky to actually get so many visits planned as harvest is happening early in Italy this year and the wineries will be abuzz with activity.

I will report back about the wines and the hospitality when I return (no high speed internet at the villa.) With all the vino and pasta, truffles, bistecca and gelato I can only hope I will be able to fit in my chair come October! Ciao for now.

PS: I was going to end with a quote from Cruise Director extraordinaire Julie McCoy but it seems, well, she didn’t really have much to say! It's all about Captain Stubing.

PPS: I bet you were wondering what Julie McCoy could possibly have to do with anything wine related!

Italian White Wine Curmudgeon

Vino Girl has never been a big fan of Italian white wines. There, I said it. You can argue with me all you want but there is just too much Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio out there to deny that Italian whites can be less than exciting (not to mention overpriced). However, Vino Girl also appreciates a good challenge so every once in awhile I find myself perusing the white wine list at an Italian restaurant.

I felt like a white wine the other night while dining at Cafe Ino in NYC. Ino is a very simple Italian cafe and, needless to say, you really shouldn’t put all that much thought in to pairing wine with a Cacciatorini Panini. Regardless, my eye went quickly past the Trebbianos, Vermentinos and Pinot Grigios until I reached something called Bianchetta Genovese. Having never heard of this Northern Italian white — which was gently priced in the $30 range — I ordered a bottle. What the hell!

I am happy to report that I was pleasantly surprised by the good mouthfeel and acidity as well as the clean apple flavors and respectable depth. Bianchetta Genovese is a rare grape from Liguria on the coast of northern Italy. Since Liguria lies on the northern Mediterranean, fish is a big part of the diet and I could see that this particular wine would go well with fish, particularly seafood. It would also drink nicely with pesto, another specialty of the region. It paired just fine with my Panini as well and I was happy to discover a new grape that I will certainly try again. A quick check shows you can find it at Astor and Crush Wine & Spirits in New York.

Montefalco from Umbria is Montefantastico!

Vino Girl never really thinks of drinking red wine from Umbria, the region almost smack dab in the middle of the boot, because the white wine Orvieto is really all that comes to mind. However, the Italian region cocooned by Tuscany, Marche, Abruzzi and Lazio (Rome) produces some exceptional wines worthy of consideration.

The most notable reds come from the DOCG Montefalco Sagrantino and the DOC Montefalco. Montefalco Sagrantino is made from the Sagrantino grape, one of Italy’s many indigenous and inscrutable grape varietals. Montefalco Rosso can include Sangiovese, Sagrantino and up to 15% of other varieties. Sagrantino is a thick-skinned grape with serious tannins that produces rich, robust reds. It is also used to make a sweet “passito” from partially dried grapes which has been consumed by Umbrians in times of celebration for centuries.

I drank the 2000 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva with friends at dinner last night and it was memorable and delicious. Paolo Bea, the 73-year old powerhouse behind the estate, is very traditional and uses only organic methods and employs no fining or filtration. The 2000 vintage is 60% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 25% Montepulicano and it has intense aromas of dark fruits, spice and licorice. The mouthfeel is super velvety and full-bodied but with enough acidity to keep it alive in your mouth. I found it to be a very well-rounded wine (the others seemed to enjoy it as well) that reminded me of a really well-made Super Tuscan with less fat and more acid. It was great with cheese and, as it turns out, risotto.

2000 Paolo Bea Montefalco Rosso Riserva - $60 retail. Salute!

Italian Nights

So the other day your favorite winemonkey and his wine tasting companion tasted to through some high end Feudi di San Gregorio wines. Amazing stuff from stem to stern. Many of you are familar with their flagship Serpico made from 100% Aglianico di Taurasi and harvested in part from century-old pre-phylloxera vines with a price tag to match. It was amazing juice as was some of its pricey siblings, but that is for another publication. Here I must confess that I have fell in love with a simple little wine they make that I in fact did not taste on that fine day.

No fellow wine lovers, your winemonkey was hot footing it out on the town with some very fine ladies who unfortunately do not share my enthusiasm for fantastic wine and damn the price point. So given the task to find an interesting and reasoably priced italian red was laid on me and focused all my wine powers to bear down on the right bottle. Thankfully, we were at a nifty little wine bar on the Lower East Side of New York called 'inoteca that carries a wide range of excellent stuff from 2005 quaffers to 1966 Barolo.

Enter the Feudi di San Gregorio "Rubrato" Aglianico. This 100% Aglianico di Taurasi is a masterpiece of an uncomplicated wine at an uncomplicated price. Tons of interest, superior balance, bright fruit and wine that made everyone happy from yours truly (as I am now writing about it) to my wine drinking companions who throughly enjoyed the wine.

How did I come to such a decision in the face of the multitude of choices presented? An easy task when you understand wine. I always (and should as well) look for solid producers that I may have tasted and enjoyed and most likely at a higher price point. These producers tend to care about their wines all the way down the line. The "Rubrato" Aglianico is an excellent example. I had not had it, yet I enjoyed a full range of ultra premium and iconic Feudi di San Gregorio recently and from the same vintage. It was a no brainer.

For the wine geeks, here is the company line:

"Grapes are hand-harvested during the last two weeks of October. After de-stemming and pressing, maceration lasts 20 days at a temperature of 79ºF. The resulting wine is aged for 12 months in barriques prior to bottling and release."

If you are interested in what else they produce take a gander below and start exploring. (P.S. I bought a case.)

Feudi di San Gregorio Portfolio
Aglianico del Vulture “Efesto” DOC Vigne di Mezzo
Campanaro
Cutizzi
Falanghina Sannio DOC
Fiano di Avellino DOCG
Greco di Tufo DOCG
Patrimo
Pietra Calda
Primitivo di Manduria di Ognissole
Privilegio
Rubrato Aglianico
Serpico
Serro Cielo
Taurasi
Taurasi Riserva DOCG Piano di Montevergine

Rethinking Moscato d'Asti...

...Well, not really. I still love the stuff for what it is. I will just think twice before aiming the cork at anyone that I don't want to see end up with a shiner. Let me explain.

As mentioned in a previous post, I was planning on bringing a few bottles down to a "girl's weekend" in Maryland, thinking this the perfect elixir to kick off the festivities. The reunion was this past weekend and I packed the bottles in a wine bag and secured them in the recommended upright position for the drive down. As soon as we arrived, I vigilantly transferred them to the refrigerator in, yet again, the recommended upright position.

Not to bore you with the details but we decided to pop the bottles open for Friday cocktail hour. Now, I honestly don't know if this is a typical characteristic of Moscato d'Asti but the first bottle had a seriously angry cork that did not want to part ways with its bottle. I had a 3- 4 minute long wrestling match with it before it so much as budged. When it started to show some signs of surrender, I gave one last forceful tug. That is when all hell broke loose. The cork, and the corkscrew, came soaring out of the bottle towards my head. As my body convulsed and was thrown backwards, I saw that the bottle was basically levitating off the counter (for the record, other people saw this too and, no, we had not been drinking beforehand). It was mayhem. The girls were either screaming as if they saw a mouse or laughing uncontrollably, stopping every so often to make sure that I was still in one piece. I was a bit dazed and confused, but otherwise fine, the frothy lava of semi-sparkling wine slowly surrounding me and flowing throughout the kitchen. After we all calmed down and decided that the bottle was possessed, we soldiered on and opened the second one – out on the lawn and pointing away from human life.

The reason this is more than just a hilarious memory on the “Monday after” is that it got me thinking about the chemistry of it all. The wine is frizzante -- or semi-sparkling, which means there is much less pressure in the bottle than in Champagne or even Moscato's second-rate cousin Asti Spumante. Given that the bottle (supposedly) has less pressure, the wine is corked with a modified version of a regular still wine cork and not with a sparkling wine closure. All you need is a corkscrew to open it. Or so they say. I have opened bottles of Moscato d’Asti before and, although I do remember going a few rounds with the cork, it certainly was nothing like this. I suppose it was all just a fluke. Anyway, best to point it away.

The Virtues of Moscato d'Asti

Autumn may not be the time to go on espousing the virtues of Moscato d’Asti but I am going to do it anyway (rebel!). Moscato d’Asti is that light, fizzy, peachy elixir that is the relative black sheep of the family of wines that come from Piedmont, Italy. It is not a wine to ponder but to sip (hey, you can guzzle it – it’s got about the same % alcohol as beer). It works nicely as a light aperitif or as a dessert wine for those people who are just not crazy about Port and want something refreshing and slightly sweet at the end of a meal.

Moscato d’Asti comes to mind for a few reasons. First, I just purchased a few bottles of Spinetta Moscato d'Asti from Taylor, who recently acquired a case of the good stuff. Second, my mother was just in town and, let me just tell you, moms love the stuff! Third, and most imminent, I am about to embark on my annual “Syracuse Girls Weekend” with 10 of my best friends from college. As you might imagine, vino girl is in charge of the wine for the weekend and I like to keep alcohol intake (we are not in college anymore folks!) as well as price, in mind. I used to fret over what wine to bring but have learned that as long as there is something to hold and sip in between the incessant chatter and gossip, everyone is more than happy. Enter Moscato d’Asti.

Although completely out of the scope of Bordeaux varietals, Spinetta is our Moscato d’Asti of choice at Bon Vivant. It is lip-smacking, thirst-quenching and easy drinking -- not overly sweet and cloying like some other Moscato d’Asti's can be. It may more readily conjure up images of lawn chairs and balmy weather versus cozy sweaters and Autumn leaves but at about $15 and 5.5% alcohol, your friends will thank you whatever the season.