Broadbentism: 1985 Chateau Mouton Rothschild

"Alas at the 15th Grand Awards banquet in New York. I found it 'surprisingly chunky and uncharming. Expected better'. The filet mignon was excellent, so it must have been all the chatter and noise in the Marriot Marquis ballroom. Or it might just have been me, because at my Bordeaux Club dinner in January 1996 I described the bouquet as 'exotic, lovely Cabernet Sauvignon, and at 9.40pm very fragrant'. Note the time: I had drawn the cork at 4.30pm, decanted it at 5.40pm and served it at 8.50pm. I also served Pol Roger '34 and '88; Laville Haut Brion '89; Cheval Blanc, Lafite and Mouton - all '85s; Lafite '59 (the best of the lot) and Suau, an '85 Barsac. Oh, and Hine Grande Champagne '66, landed '67, bottled '82. Just odd bottles. I don't have a great cellar." ***** An exciting wine at the top but not yet over it. Will continue recklessly for another ten years or more. MB