Cookshop Wine Service Deserves Praise

It's pretty rare that we actually praise a restaurant for its wine service. In case you haven't noticed, we are usually bitching and moaning about restaurants for their boring lists of undrinkable wines served by a mostly bird-brained staff. Well, Vino Girl has a fresh outlook for you today.

I ate at Cookshop in NYC last night, a restaurant run by the same guys who opened Five Points in Noho many years back and are re-opening Provence in Soho in a week or so. The food was delicious and the wait staff was charming but, alas, we are not here to discuss such inconsequential details -- we are here to talk about the wine.

The wine list is only one page, whites on one side and reds on the back, but it is carefully chosen and diverse. I did notice an overabundance of the most recent vintages (a pet peeve of mine and Winemonkey's) but altogether at least there were some interesting choices to make. My eye went directly to a 1968 Rioja for $150 that stuck out like a sore thumb for many reasons. 1968, which happens to be my birth year, is also generally speaking a horrifying vintage around the globe (save for a few examples in Italy, Spain and CA). What in the world was it doing on the list? I summoned our waiter who summoned the wine guy and he explained that the wine was really alive right now and that he likes to rotate something interesting and unexpected on to the wine list every so often. He also told us that he has some vintage bottles in the cellar that are off the list but for the offer for those who want to spend some extra money on wine.

In the end, we resisted the temptation to try the '68 (I am holding out for the 1968 Vega Sicilia Unico for any of you who are shopping for my birthday gift) and went with the Sommelier's suggestion of a 2001 Carinena, also from Spain. He was very enthusiastic about it and at $50 it fit more with our meal and casual mood. Not the most memorable bottle of wine but pleasant, very drinkable and unique. It was refreshing to talk to a Sommelier who is passionate about their list and enjoys recommending wines and following up on his suggestions. There are places with more involved lists for wine fanatics to be sure but if you want to be assured an agreeable wine experience, Vino Girl highly recommends Cookshop. As a side note, they also stock some killer stouts, porters and pilsners. ;) Cheers!

The ABC's of Dessert Wine

[From Ladies Who Launch Wine Tip]

You may have heard of Chateau d'Yquem, the ultra lush and exceedingly expensive dessert wine from France but there are countless dessert wines out there from around the world to suit every taste and budget. Consider these ten examples from A to V as a very good place to start.

Aszu – Produced in the Tokaj-Hegyalja region of Hungary, this white wine is referred to as Tokaj Aszu (TOKE-eye-ee AHS-oo). It has flavors of nut and caramel with dried apricot and orange fruit and a refreshing acidity. Look for five or six puttonyos (related to the sugar level) for the best examples.

Banyuls – Made in the South of France predominantly from Grenache grapes. This red sweet wine is nutty and rich — almost Port-like.

Eiswein – German for “ice wine”, this rich wine is most often made from Riesling grapes picked while frozen on the vine. It is concentrated and fruity with a zing of acidity to balance out the sweetness. Worthwhile examples of ice wine are also made in Canada.

Marsala – When you think of Marsala you may think of an oxidized, mass produced Sicilian red wine best reserved for cooking (if that). But, pick up a bottle of Marco De Bartoli’s “Vecchio Samperi” Marsala and change your perception forever. The wine is delicious with flavors of dried fruit, maple, nuts, spice, and caramel. If you think it sounds like an ice cream topping, you are not too far off.

Moscato d'Asti – A slightly sparkling white wine from Piedmont, Italy, this is a lighter alternative to the luscious dessert wine crowd. The moderate sweetness and thirst-quenching bubbles make it perfect for dessert or for lounging by the pool in summer.

Port – A fortified red (and occasionally white) wine from Portugal, there are too many styles of Port to get into here but the general character is of dried fruit, toast and spice.

Recioto – Also a red wine, this sweet cousin of Amarone from the Veneto region of Italy is a plush, full-bodied, raisin-y treat.

Sauternes – The famous region of Bordeaux, France (home of the aforementioned Chateau d’Yquem) that produces complex, opulent and honeyed white dessert wines. Although it can be thought of as a dessert wine, some would argue it is the perfect partner for Foie Gras.

Sherry – This fortified white wine from Spain has many different personalities from bone dry to sweet. Pedro Ximenez is the sweetest, with a raisin-y flavor and thick texture.

Vin Santo – Primarily made in Tuscany, Italy, this white dessert wine is traditionally served with biscotti. Quality and price can vary drastically so ask your wine merchant or sommelier about reliable producers. The best examples taste of fig, caramel and honey.

Cheers!

Grand Cru Skincare

So much for paying hundreds of dollars to drink Napa Valley cult wine, now you can pay up to rub it on your face and make your skin more radiant to boot. A new skin care line, incorporating wine grapes for their antioxidant properties, even has the Mondavi name behind it. Winemaker Carlo Mondavi and friend Josh Levine are behind the line of products called DAVI. Le Grand Cru, formulated especially for men, includes shea butter, vitus vinifera grapes, green tea and soy and is available for $175 at Bergdorf Goodman in NYC. As if you don't catch enough flak for having a cellar full of $200 bottles, now your medicine cabinet can keep up. Cheers!

2004 Spring Mountain Vineyard Syrah

Wine Monkey and I recently opened a bottle of this 100% Syrah from the Spring Mountain District in Napa and - wow - what a nice surprise. I say surprise because I tend to think of California Syrah as overwhelming to the palate - too spicy, overly smokey, or simply over-concentrated and overpowering. The 2004 Spring Mountain Vineyard is textbook Syrah but in just the right proportions. It has nice smoke, jammy fruit, appealing spice, good texture and weight and is well balanced. If your palate is tired of tongue-staining, overblown Syrah and you like a refreshing dose of acidity in your wine, give this a try for sure.

All the fruit is from the Miravalle vineyard, one of Spring Mountain Vineyards four properties, and there are only 495 cases of the 2004 vintage. The first vintage was 1997 and the wine costs $50 from the winery. Spring Mountain Vineyard's primary wine is a red Bordeaux blend but they also produce wine from the traditional white Bordeaux varietals - Sauvignon Blanc, Semillion and Muscadelle. Syrah and Viogner are more recent plantings.

Save your smile, cheers!

Scoring Deals at Auction

[From Ladies Who Launch Weekly Wine Tip]

Contrary to popular opinion wine auctions are not just for the well-to-do. If you do some homework ahead of time and keep a level head at the auction, there are some great bargains out there to help you start (or fill out) your wine collection. We have provided some tips that should help you to keep your shirt and walk out with a great deal on a bottle, or even a case or two.

# Order the catalog or, if possible, download it from the auction website for free.
# Pick a focus. Decide what type of wine you want to bid on be it White Burgundy, Red Bordeaux, California Cabernet, etc. It will keep you from getting overwhelmed.
# Look for mixed lots. Investor’s typically skip these items and the savvy bidder can pick up an interesting odd lot of great bottles.
# Go early and stay late. Auctions are typically set up around lunches and most of the heavy bidding gets done during the middle of the day.
# Check retail prices ahead of time. Sites such as http://winesearcher.com provide retail prices on most bottles you will find at auction. You would be surprised how many people buy wine at auction that they could have purchased cheaper from their neighborhood retailer.
# Take into account the buyer’s premium, taxes and shipping before you decide that something is a good deal. All of these things can add over 20% to the hammer price so be wary.
# Set a limit for bidding. On any given lot you should know that when the bidding gets to a certain level, you will put down your paddle and admit defeat.

Keep in mind that auctions are fun and joining in on the action can be adrenaline-inducing. Some auction houses even include perks such as pre-sale tastings (for a reasonable charge), complimentary Champagne, free tasting bottles at the auction event or lunch for attendees (one plate per paddle please!). Click on this link http://www.wine-searcher.com/merchants/x,auction for a list of auction houses and their urls. For more specific information, visit the Collector’s Corner column at http://bonvivantwineguide.com .

Happy Bidding!

Broadbentism: 1996 Chateau Trottevieille

"It was showing quite well at a British Airways blind tasting in November 1997, with its attractive, youthful fruit. Much later, Philippe Casteja, an old friend, sent me a case out of the blue. A nice wine, quite good fruit and weight, on the lean side (1999 and subsequent), though, I confess, I have not been too keen on it recently: dry, rather strange piquant acidity. I doubt if he will send me more. Last tasted March 2001. *(*). Drink up" MB

Book Review: 1000 Best Wine Secrets

1000 Best Wine Secrets by Carolyn Hammond

This new wine handbook, written by Carolyn Hammond, founder of the Wine Tribune and contributor to Decanter magazine among others, covers everything from selecting the perfect bottle to storing wine and talking the talk. Carolyn clearly knows her stuff and it is apparent in many of the book’s sections — particularly Tasting Wine Like a Pro — that she holds a diploma from the Wine & Spirits Education Trust. Admittedly, Vino Girl only reached the Advanced Certificate level but can still appreciate the depth of knowledge that WSET imparts.

There are heaps of information for wine neophytes and connoisseurs alike, most of it useful. We at Drink the Good Stuff can appreciate any book that exposes the fact that not all wines on a restaurant wine list are ready to drink. We also loved the pointer on how to make sure the wine you bring to a dinner party is served that evening — arrive with it decanted. Brilliant!

One of our favorite sections is the Wine Myths chapter which dispenses valuable clues on assessing quality Champagne, using vintage charts — but not overusing them — and decanting. The book overall is well written and does not speak down to novices nor does it come across as remedial to those of us who know a thing or two about wine.

There were a few “facts” that we found not so useful, even misleading. Relating heavier bottles with better wines is oversimplification at best. We would argue that heavier bottles are simply a marketing ploy and, frankly, a nuisance to fit in most wine fridges. In the end, however, our only real complaint is that this small format book is almost too exhaustive. Perhaps it just deserves a larger format.

It’s a great gift for someone who wants to casually learn more about wine. You could conceivably read a tip or two each evening and be on your way to swirling and sniffing with the pros.

Forgive me, Caroline, while I let the wine snob in me tiptoe out for just a second. I sincerely hope that any friend I might recommend this book to does not serve me Beaujolais at their wedding (see tip #265).

Available on Amazon.com.