Thursday was a major wine tasting day in Tuscany – Vino Girl had scheduled two wineries in Montepulciano and two in Montalcino successively. Since there was to be so much driving involved, we decided it was best to spare ourselves the agony of two designated drivers and get someone to cart our buzzed up bodies around the precarious Tuscan roads. We belted ourselves into an 8-seater van and entrusted our lives for the day to Sebastian, our suave Italian driver.
Our first stop was Avignonesi winery in Montepulciano, almost directly south of our villa in Gaiole in Chianti. Avignonesi consists of four wine-producing estates: Le Capezzine, I Poggetti, La Selva and La Lombarda and we arrived at Le Capezzine a smidge late due to our cappuccino and bombolino (Italian donut) run with Sebastian. All worth it to wake us up and get some food in our stomachs.
Lorenza, our guide, was waiting for us at the gate with the other folks in our group rearing to go. She was very serious about wine — in a charming way of course — and showed us around the beautiful vineyards and explained Avignonesi’s philosophy and techniques in vivid detail. The most fortuitous feature of the tour was that we showed up at the exact time the grapes for the famed Vin Santo were laying to dry on straw mats in the drying room. This was a beautiful and rare site to behold.
Avignonesi is one of the most highly lauded makers of Vin Santo in all of Tuscany and they take the business of making this sweet “holy wine” very seriously. There was a lot of solemn talk about ‘The Mother’ which is the precious sediment that contains the yeasts that make Avignonesi Vin Santo possible. Avignonesi is one of the few estates to make a red as well as a white Vin Santo. Sadly, we were unable to taste either as both are very expensive and very rare. Even Lorenza fessed up to only ever having a very small taste of the traditional and beloved Vin Santo.
After the tour, we sat down for a tasting of Avignonesi wines including: 2006 Cortona Sauvignon Blanc ($11), 2004 Rosso di Montepulciano ($14), 2003 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Grandi Annate Riserva ($55), and 2000 50/50 ($95).
The white was a big hit and we bought some to sip pool side at the Villa later in the week. The Rosso was basic but a good everyday drinking red (isn’t that was Rosso should be?) and the Vino Nobile Grandi Annate was something special. The 2003 needs some time but already displays the earthiness and minerality that we found to be a signature of Sangiovese from Montepulciano (AKA Sangiovese Grosso or Prugnolo Gentile) in comparison to Sangiovese from the Chianti region. The 50/50 is an IGT Tuscan which is a collaboration between Avignonesi and the Capannelle estate in Chianti. Avignonesi provides the Merlot and Capannelle the Sangiovese for the 50/50 blend. The wine is rounder and more forward than the Vino Nobile but smooth and silky with intriguing fruit and spice.
At the end of our tasting we found ourselves in high spirits but, naturally, late for our next appointment. Back to the van! “Veloce!” says Sebastian, and off we go. Word to The Mother.
Our visit to Barone Ricasoli was somewhat of a surprise – a pleasant one. For a winery that is one of the largest producers of Chianti Classico and that was at one time owned by the Canadian company Seagram’s, the estate has barrels full of soul. Apparently the Ricasoli family does not like to talk about “those years” — all 20 of them — during which Ricasoli was sold to Seagram’s who in turn sold it to Hardy’s of Australia. As you can imagine, the aim quickly turned from quality to quantity, a fact that deeply saddened a family that used to be considered by some the Lafite of Tuscany.
In 1993 the Ricasoli’s were able to buy the family property back and set things on the right path once again. That was the year Francesco Ricasoli took over and, at the time, the estate was putting out a staggering 9 million bottles under 30 different labels. Francesco invested in replanting and in order to amp up the quality right away, began buying grapes from neighboring vineyards with high standards. The current production of 2 million bottles is still a whole lot of wine but it's a far cry from 9 million and the number of labels has been narrowed to six. The winery is once again receiving positive press and Francesco intends to cut back on the amount of purchased grapes as soon as his own vineyards are up to the family’s standards.
On our visit we saw some of the positive aspects of deep pocket ownership, including a “Laverne & Shirley” type bottling operation and massive storage facilities. The estate seemed to be picking their Sangiovese sooner than other producers in the Gaiole in Chianti area which we took as an attempt to cut down on over ripeness and produce an old world style Chianti. The winery facilities are beautiful and modern (some still in-progress) and the Castle above the winery, called Brolio Castle, is a quick step back to the 10th century with manicured gardens and stunning panoramic views.
Our tasting was with Sveva who assured us that although she had a German sounding name, she was 100% Italiano. Sveva was a perfect host with an impressive nose and palate, not to mention great restaurant recommendations and the like. She opened not two but three of the whites until she was satisfied with the bottle we would be tasting. (For the record, none of us noticed anything wrong with the first two.) She does not drink which just may give her a heightened awareness and advantage in tasting but she did admit that her tea-totalling status is a constant source of harassment from her friends in Siena.
We tasted the 2006 Torricella Chardonnay, the 2003 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico and the 2001 Casalferro Tuscan IGT as well as a 2006 passito (sweet wine from raisinated grapes) called Granello. We enjoyed all of the wines. The 2006 Torricella Chardonnay was fresh and fruity at about $28 per bottle. The 2003 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico is the “old school” brand (one step up from the Brolio Chianti Classico which is 100% Sangiovese) and is only made in the best vintages from Sangiovese, a dab of Cabernet and sometimes Merlot. It is rich yet elegant and was described to us as the Robert Redford of the Ricasoli wines ($35). The 2001 Castelferro ($40), which has an appropriately more modern label, is made from Sangiovese and Merlot and is more muscular and powerful. We dubbed the wine the David Beckham of the brands. The 2006 Granello was not to my taste but reminded me of very tropical Sauternes ($?).
All in all this is a reliable estate with quality wines. We had such a pleasant visit that we purchased both Robert Redford and David Beckham – I guess we’ll let them fight it out in the wine fridge! ;)
One of the first Tuscan wineries our lucky gang of seven experienced together was Castello di Ama. The winery does not usually accept visitors outside of the trade but a helpful sales guy from one of Ama’s importers (The Sorting Table) was able to make good use of my vocation and his connections to get us an appointment.
What a treat it was! Our cheerful hostess Donatella showed us around the lovely estate, which lies in the heart of the Chianti Classico region in the commune of Gaiole in Chianti. Ama produces wine exclusively from vineyards on the estate and production totals a mere 300 – 350,000 bottles. The estate also yields an even smaller quantity of dee-licious extra virgin olive oil. Marco Pallanti, a well-respected winemaker in Tuscany, oversees the vineyards and makes the wine.
The grounds are charming — almost like a quaint Italian village — and the most interesting aspect is the focus on art. In 2000 the winery instituted Castello di Ama for Contemporary Art to bring together the idea of Art and Wine and showcase various internationals artists. There is a new art installation each year and our favorite was probably the 2001 mirror exhibit by French artist Daniel Buren which is positioned as a "window" on to the real.
“The wine, Vino Girl, what about the wine”?! Well, Donatella was very generous with the wine and we were able to taste the 2005 Al Poggio, followed by the 2001 Vigneto Bellavista and the 2003 L’Apparita. We also tasted the estate’s own olive oil (About $50 for 17 ounces) which is why I know it is dee-lish!
The 2005 Al Poggio (about $30) is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Malvasia Bianca. It’s bright, complex and enchanting and, although they do not sell wine at the estate, we promptly visited a nearby enoteca and purchased a bottle to drink with dinner.
The 2001 Vigneto Bellavista ($100 - $140) is a single vineyard, old vines Chianti Classico made of mostly Sangiovese with a dab of Malvasia Nera. This wine was my darling of the day. It is only produced in the very best vintages (1995, 1997, 1999 and 2001 of late) and is tremendously elegant with superior balance and structure. The wine is multifaceted with juicy black cherry and berries, pleasant earth tones, and layers of herbs and spices. It is silky smooth with a medium to full body and should last for years. Polished is the single best word I can use to describe it.
The 2003 L’Apparita ($175 – $200) is 100% Merlot done the Italian way. By this I mean it is not flabby in the least but clean, rich, minty and chocolaty. It is made in a more lush style than the Bellavista, but, after all, this is Merlot. Overall it is a refined wine that is still too young to fully enjoy.
The gang of seven was duly impressed with all the wines and we departed the “castle of loves” with a certain affection for the winery. In true Italian fashion, we also found out that Donatella lives in the diminutive town we hiked to the day before. I think she was nervous we might knock on her door looking for Sunday dinner!
I should mention that we also drank a bottle of the 2006 Castello di Ama Rosato the following day at lunch (in Donatella’s town.) We were not disappointed. This was one of the best Italian Roses I have ever tasted. The wine is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo and possesses a character which to me is lacking in most roses. Coupled with great freshness, acidity and ripe fruit, this is a real winner for under $15!
Chin Chin
Badia a Coltibuono is right outside the village of Gaiole in Chianti and we hopped in the car and cruised up there for an 11am tour and tasting one morning. Not surprisingly, there were only two of us with the fortitude to carry on after the previous night’s feast and vino drinking — not to mention the comfy lounge chairs calling out to us from the villa’s luxurious swimming pool. 
There is no actual grape growing at the estate of Badia a Coltibuono, which is an ancient monastery dating back to the 11th century. It’s too cold to grow wine grapes up there so the vineyards and winery are situated at lower altitude levels in Monti in Chianti. The estate is somewhat of a spectacle of activity with tours, tastings, restaurants, accommodations, a cooking school and direct sales of wine and olive oil. The views, however, are tremendous and the grounds sculptured and beautiful.
We were part of a guided tour, which has its drawbacks including the requisite group of loud, obnoxious Texans (no offense to the longhorn state) who are out to be heard – and be drinkin’! The tour, though, was conducted in an interesting manner and we were able to carry our generous and successive tastes of Rose, Chianti Classico and Sangioveto along with us while we explored the grounds, the ageing cellars and, finally, the rustic tasting room.
The Rose, 2006 Cetamura Rosato ($10), was a disappointment to me and a little too sweet for my taste but the crowd seemed pleased. The basic 2005 Chianti Classico ($18 - $20) was bright and fresh, forward and fruity and was drinking nicely for such a young wine. While it was not altogether exciting, it is a solid everyday drinking red if you prefer a more forward style. The 2003 Sangioveto ($65 - $70), a 100% Sangiovese labeled IGT and made from older vines, was huge and tannic but with good ripe fruit from this hot vintage. In my estimation, there are better IGT wines out there with more personality.
All in all, the tour and the wines were a little standard but a pleasant place to visit on a nice day. Chin, Chin!
Thursday was a major wine tasting day in Tuscany – Vino Girl had scheduled two wineries in Montepulciano and two in Montalcino successively. Since there was to be so much driving involved, we decided it was best to spare ourselves the agony of two designated drivers and get someone to cart our buzzed up bodies around the precarious Tuscan roads. We belted ourselves into an 8-seater van and entrusted our lives for the day to Sebastian, our suave Italian driver. 
