Well, folks, Philippe Melka is at it again. Actually, he has been “at it” for some time as winemaker for Caldwell Vineyards, one of the many wineries on his consulting list.
Although we have not tasted the eponymous bottling of Caldwell’s Syrah/Cab blend, we have had the 2004 Rocket Science and the 2003 Re Entry, both of which are evocative of the smooth and balanced Melka style with ripe, rich can’t-mistake-it-for-anything-but-California fruit.
The 2004 Rocket Science is 32% Syrah, 32% Cabernet, and 30% Merlot with a pinch of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. A Bordeaux varietal wine with a big, spicy Syrah twist I guess you could call it. The cost on the Caldwell Vineyard website is $40.
We were unable to uncover the mystery of the blend for the 2003 Re-Entry. Is it a so-called second label? We can't be sure but the wine is a tad more rustic than Rocket Science yet still juicy, well-balanced and a great Cali drinker for around $20. The wine is unfortunately sold out on the website but was listed at $22 while it lasted. Keep an eye out at your local wine store.
The Caldwell label was launched in 1998. Wines are Napa Valley designates and the vineyard sits adjacent the Carneros appellation, at 500 feet and above the fog.
http://www.caldwellvineyard.com
Having done a short stint as a sommelier (yes, if you blinked you missed it) Vino Girl is even more attuned to wine service in restaurants these days. As you can imagine, I have witnessed everything from the severely overdone to the ridiculously inattentive but when service is carried out just right that is what really makes me stand up and take notice.
I had heard almost universally negative remarks about Keith McNally’s latest venture, Morandi, including backhanded compliments from the likes of Frank Bruni and Adam Platt. This admittedly kept me away from the West Village Italian eatery for many months but Vino Girl decided to give it a try on Friday.
Many of the critics rants were true (claustrophobically low ceilings, somewhat cliché décor, packed-in tables) but besides that and the fact that it was approaching ninety degrees inside, it was an enjoyable place and I would go back, mainly because the wine list is varied and the sommelier provided just the right amount of service.
Considering the temperature was rising as more and more bodies were packed into adjacent tables, white wine seemed the appropriate choice. I headed straight for Trentino-Alto Adige and ordered the Kerner from our server. Kerner is usually planted in the same places as Muller-Thurgau and is a cross between Riesling and Trollinger. The wines are usually very vibrant and packed with fruit, resembling Riesling in many ways.
I was happy with my choice — and parched besides — when the sommelier came weaving over to warn us that the Kerner on the list was a bit sweet, which is unexpected. When my nose wrinkled at the mention of ‘sweet’ he suggested the Muller-Thurgau (a cross between Riesling and Sylvaner). Muller-Thurgau has a similar flavor profile to Kerner but usually has less acidity. The sommelier assured me that this Muller-Thurgau which, mind you, was nearly $20 less expensive, was vibrant and a good substitute for my first choice. Well, he was right, he was pleasant and helpful about it all, and I had an extra $20 in my pocket to get some ice cream on the way home.
Salute to Morandi!
211 Wavery Place (btwn Perry & Charles)
Chances are you’ve never heard of it, but the Marselan grape, named after the small French coastal town where it was first grown, is making its way into the U.S. The grape has received some attention in Europe over the past few years and now that it has been cleared for U.S. wine labels, is expected to garner some interest in the states.
Marselan is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache. Although the hybrid was created in 1961 by the French National Institute for Agricultural Research (INRA), the first wine was not produced and bottled until 2002. The grape is said to make hearty, medium bodied red wines. We say bring it on!
The 2006 Domaine Du Clos D’Alari Grand Clos ranks right up there with the best rose wines of the summer. Winemonkey and I have trudged our way through enough "too sugary sweet", "too haltingly tart", and "waaaay too watery" rose wines to overlook this dry, well balanced summer quaffer.
Although there is nothing extraordinary about the wine, it does rise above the fray and, dare we say, would pair well with a light summer lunch as well as an all-out barbeque. The wine has bright peach and red berry notes along with a cool minerality and vibrant freshness. What more can you ask for?
The wine is made in Provence from 55% Cinsault, 20% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 10% Rolle, and 5% Mourvèdre. You can find it at AOC Fine Wines for $20.
Well, folks, Philippe Melka is at it again. Actually, he has been “at it” for some time as winemaker for Caldwell Vineyards, one of the many wineries on his consulting list. 
