Broadbentism: 1980 Chateau Petrus

"In 1986, Hans Peter Frericks gave a lavish Petrus tasting/dinner in the Margrave's Palace in his home town of Munich. A magnum of the '80 was produced for the tasting and an imperiale for the dinner. It was a bit over the top, spicy, specious but an attractive drink. And drink it we did, accompanied by caviar dished out like porridge. I was sitting next to Christian Mouiex who agreed that 'the beluga was sensational but did nothing for the Petrus'. Last sniffed Sept 1995. At best **." MB

Chardonnay or Pouilly Fuisse?

[From The Ladies Who Launch Weekly Wine Tip]

Wine can be a mystifying subject and it doesn’t help that each country has its own protocol for wine names and labels. U.S. wine labels are relatively easy to decipher because most tell us the grape, the place it was produced, the year it was produced and even the percentage of alcohol. Although that certainly does not tell the whole story about what is inside the bottle, at least you know that if you like Chardonnay, you are getting Chardonnay.

The vast majority of European wine labels do not disclose the grape but are more focused on the region in which the wine was produced, for example, Burgundy in France. The chart below matches up five of the world’s most popular grape varieties with some of their aliases in other countries. This is by no means an exhaustive list but a useful reference to print out or put in your Palm or Blackberry. When you see these names in a wine store or on a restaurant wine list you will at least know that if you purchase/order a Gevrey-Chambertin you are not going to be drinking a Merlot.

White Wines

Chardonnay – White Burgundy, France (Chablis, Corton-Charlemagne, Meursault, Montrachet, Macon Blanc, Pouilly Fuisse)

Sauvignon Blanc – Loire Valley, France (Sancerre, Pouilly Fume); White Bordeaux, France (Entre Deux Mers, Graves/Pessac Leognan — often blended with the Semillion grape)

Red Wines

Cabernet Sauvignon – Red Bordeaux (Medoc, Margaux, Saint Estephe, Pauillac, Saint Julien, Listrac, Moulis, Graves/Pessac Leognan — blended with other grapes including Merlot & Cabernet Franc); Italian Super Tuscans (Tuscan IGT, Bolgheri — blended with other grapes including Merlot, Sangiovese and, increasingly, Syrah)

Merlot - Red Bordeaux (Saint Emilion, Cotes de Castillon, Cotes de Francs, Pomerol, Fronsac — blended with other grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon & Cabernet Franc); Italian Super Tuscans (Tuscan IGT, Bolgheri — blended with other grapes including Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and, increasingly, Syrah)

Pinot Noir – Red Burgundy (Marsannay, Fixin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vougeot, Vosne-Romanee, Flagey-Echezeaux, Nuits-St-Georges, Beaune, Savigny-les-Beaune, Chorey-les-Beaune, Pommard, Volnay); Austria & Germany (Spatburgunder); Italy (Pinot Nero)

Syrah – Australia (Shiraz); Northern Rhone (Cote Rotie, Cornas, Hermitage)

Cheers!

Italian White Wine Curmudgeon

Vino Girl has never been a big fan of Italian white wines. There, I said it. You can argue with me all you want but there is just too much Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio out there to deny that Italian whites can be less than exciting (not to mention overpriced). However, Vino Girl also appreciates a good challenge so every once in awhile I find myself perusing the white wine list at an Italian restaurant.

I felt like a white wine the other night while dining at Cafe Ino in NYC. Ino is a very simple Italian cafe and, needless to say, you really shouldn’t put all that much thought in to pairing wine with a Cacciatorini Panini. Regardless, my eye went quickly past the Trebbianos, Vermentinos and Pinot Grigios until I reached something called Bianchetta Genovese. Having never heard of this Northern Italian white — which was gently priced in the $30 range — I ordered a bottle. What the hell!

I am happy to report that I was pleasantly surprised by the good mouthfeel and acidity as well as the clean apple flavors and respectable depth. Bianchetta Genovese is a rare grape from Liguria on the coast of northern Italy. Since Liguria lies on the northern Mediterranean, fish is a big part of the diet and I could see that this particular wine would go well with fish, particularly seafood. It would also drink nicely with pesto, another specialty of the region. It paired just fine with my Panini as well and I was happy to discover a new grape that I will certainly try again. A quick check shows you can find it at Astor and Crush Wine & Spirits in New York.

Blue Ribbon Downing Street Wine Bar

There has been much hype of late about the opening of the Blue Ribbon Downing Street Wine Bar (can you have a longer name for a smaller place?) this past week in NYC. The bar happens to be on my block in the West Village (right down the street from Blue Ribbon Bakery) and I have been anxiously awaiting its arrival for going on 6 months now. I am not privy to the issues that may or may not have taken place while constructing the tiny, almost perfectly square space but I will say that I have seen at least one other business move out of location, put a "for lease" sign up in the window, find a tenant and have a grand opening in the time that it took for this miniscule spot to paint the exterior. That said it is beautifully done both inside and out, right down to the light wood chosen for the walls, the raw lighting and the completely hidden entrance to the restroom.

I stopped in on Valentine's Day eve, the second night the bar was "unofficially open" (the kitchen is not completely done yet) to see what I have to look forward to. The bar was predictably packed and the windows fogged over, giving the place an air of anonymity. Perhaps that is why Julianna Margolis and her youngish male companion looked so contented sitting amongst a crowd of unmoved Manhattanites at the bar. The staff was extremely welcoming and the wine list, although there was a little too much commotion for me to dig into it, looked like it had a lot of decent options. The small plates, some recognizable from other Blue Ribbon menus and some new, seem the perfect accompaniment to the list.

This is honestly one of the smallest spaces I have ever seen in New York (which is saying something) and I “worry” that, although I live practically across the street, I will be unable to score the aptly name "Gold Coast" bar po by the windows. Further more, will I ever be in the mood to cram myself in to the congested space simply for a glass of wine and a toast point? I hope it doesn’t come to that but I suppose I am doing myself a disservice by blogging about it in the first place. Well, I can always head across the street at 5pm when the bar opens, score myself a bar stool and let people pack themselves in around me. Now that’s more like it!

Blue Ribbon Downing Street Wine Bar
34 Downing St., New York (btwn Bedford & Varick)
212-691-0404
5pm – 2am

The Truth About Sulfites

[From The Ladies Who Launch Weekly Wine Tip]

Many people blame the sulfites in red wine for giving them what is commonly referred to as a “red wine headache”. In reality, sulfites, which are naturally occurring in grapes, onions, garlic and many other plants, are generally above suspicion and have been used in winemaking since Roman times. Sulpher dioxide acts as a preservative as well as an antioxidant. Sulfites can be added to wine at different times during the grape growing and winemaking processes. At the outset, sulfur may be sprayed directly on the vines to deter insects and disease. Sulfur can then be added during winemaking to impede the growth of mold and bacteria naturally found on grapes. Some wines that are produced without the use of sulfites during the winemaking phase can have unusual odors and flavors. Before bottling, sulfites, in the form of gas or tables, are often added to prevent spoilage or oxidation in the finished wine.

A common misperception is that U.S. wines — and wines imported to the U.S. — have more sulfites, or “chemicals” than wines from France or Italy. This is not the case. The words "Contains Sulfites" are mandatory on labels of wine sold in the United States that have more than 10ppm (points per million) of sulfites. These labeling regulations do not apply to wines sold in France, Italy, or most other countries. If a U.S. wine label reads “No Added Sulfites” it simply means that the amount is less than 10ppm but since sulfites naturally occur in grapes there really is no such thing as a sulfite free wine.

We are not saying you cannot get a headache from drinking red wine. In fact, drink a whole lot of it and you are practically guaranteed a good old fashioned “red wine headache”, sometimes referred to as a hangover. If you continue to blame sulfites (and it is true that about 1% of the population is sensitive to sulfites) don’t let red wine take all the heat. Sulfite levels are actually much higher in white wines because they need more antioxidant help (provided by the tannins from the grape skins in red wines) to keep them fresh in the bottle. Bottoms up!

Broadbentism: 1990 Opus One

"Several notes, first at a Diners' Club 'Vintage Evening' at Waterside Inn. I was there to speak about the wines. Unhappily, this deep, spicy, full-bodied and still youthful wine dominated the Bressole de Perfreau Poelee. It didn't work with the Tete a tet de Fromage either. Ch d'Yquem 1986 had been matched with, but would have been totally destroyed by Michael Roux's out-of-this-world creme brulee, so I suggested abandoning the Opus after the partridge, tasting the Yquem with the cheese, then by itself, then - to prove a point - after a mouthful of creme brulee. Naturally, I did all this in the most tactful way. (It was hard work though.)" ****(*) - MB

Romance Your Valentine With Wine

Here are a few tips and wine pairings that will have your Valentine eating out of the palm of your hand in no time. [From Ladies Who Launch Weekly Wine Tip]

Oysters and Champagne are the perfect start to an amorous meal and one of the classic wine and food unions. For the best results, go for a Blanc de Blanc Champagne (which means that it is made from 100% Chardonnay.) A few good options are the Duval Leroy Blanc de Chardonnay Champagne for approximately $40 or the Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc del Blancs NV for around $30.

What better to satisfy your sweet tooth than a little chocolate. If that is what you are craving Cabernet Sauvignon is the perfect pairing. A bold and full-bodied wine, Cabernet goes particularly well with dark chocolate. Better yet, Chateau Calon Segur, a Cabernet Sauvignon blend from the Bordeaux region of France, has a heart right on the label. You should be able to find it (you don’t think the heart label is lost on retailers, do you?) at your local wine shop for around $50.

If chocolate (or dessert in general) is not your thing but you still feel like lingering, head straight for the sweet wines. For something different try a sweet Marsala and, no, it is not what you are thinking. Marsala is confusing at best but, trust us, the artisan Marsala made by De Bartoli is a real indulgence and the Marsala Superiore Riserva is a decadent end to any meal. If you can’t find the De Bartoli (available at Italian Wine Merchants and Vino in New York, then try an Ice Wine from Canada, Austria or Germany.

Happy Valentine’s Day & Cheers.

Broadbentism: 1986 Chateau Lafite Rothschild

"...more amenable than I expected, good mid-palate fruit but hard edged. Something like '62 or '66." Last noted at a combined children's birthday lunch party at home, Jan 1999 (****) I propose to leave my children Emma and Bartholomew two magnums each in my will- if Daphne hasn't drunk them! -MB

Spanish Best Buy: 2003 Novellum

In an attempt to escape the blustery cold today, Vino Girl took cover in the first place that was open and (who would have thought?) ended up in a wine store. Le Du's Wines (600 Washington St. between Leroy and Morton) was an instant oasis from the wind and they just happened to be having a tasting of Spanish wines (bonus!). The wines ranged from a simple Ribera Del Duero Joven to a serious Priorat but the one that caught my attention was the 2003 Bodegas Rejadorada Novellum. One hundred percent Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo from the Toro region of Spain), the Novellum is a chocolatey, rich and juicy drinker with good grip. It is ready to drink today but this is one $20 wine that can improve with a few years in the cellar. It has the ripeness that you would expect from the hot 2003 vintage but with enough acidity to keep it firm and structured. Rarely do I walk out with a wine from a retail tasting but this one warmed me up and won me over. Give it a try.

Proper Wine Serving Temperatures

[From Ladies Who Launch Weekly Wine Tip]

Many people make the mistake of serving white wines too cold and red wines too warm. The temperature at which you serve and drink wine is more important to the experience than you might suspect. When served too cold or too warm, wines can lose their true personality — pleasing aromas and flavors can be masked and disagreeable characteristics exaggerated. When wine is served over 68°F alcohol aromas are so pronounced that they may be the only thing you can smell, while wines served at less than 45°F will have no discernable aromas at all. Some of these temperature recommendations are going to sound cooler than what you are used to, but if you stick to our guidelines, you should be happily drinking refreshing wine in no time.

White wines stored in your average refrigerator (~40°F) are too cold to drink. Assuming that you do not have a wine refrigerator or wine cellar set to the appropriate serving temperature, your best bet is to chill your room temperature whites in the fridge for between 45 - 90 minutes before serving and drinking. This will enable the aromas and flavors in the wine to shine. On the other hand, if you are serving a very simple (ok, cheap) white it is best to serve the wine a bit colder to disguise the off flavors or faults. One caveat, many restaurants serve whites too cold and insist on jamming your bottle back in the ice bucket every time you turn your back. If you can’t hold your wine glass without a mitten, ask the waiter to rescue the wine from the ice and leave it on your table.

Red wines, on the other hand, are often served too warm. The golden rule that we all hear is to serve red wines at “room temperature” but as we all know room temperature varies greatly depending on the room and the season. On top of those variations, the idea of what room temperature is has changed greatly over time and now is generally considered to be about 72°F which is far too warm to serve wine properly. Again, unless your wines are stored in a wine refrigerator, wine cellar, or other consistently cool place, they will probably benefit from 20 to 30 minutes in the refrigerator before serving and drinking. Generally speaking, lighter reds such as Beajoulais, young Burgundy and Pinot Noir from Oregon and California should be served cooler than Bordeaux, Barolo, Rhone wines and Cabernet and Merlot from Washington and California. If your wine is served too warm in a restaurant, don’t be afraid to ask the waiter to chill it down for you. If you get an exaggerated eye roll in response, chances are your waiter probably knows less than you do about wine. Hand them the bottle and roll your eyes right back.

While we are not suggesting you over-think the serving temperature of the wines you drink, we guarantee that your experience will be enhanced if you keep these simple tips in mind. Just remember that if you are in doubt, cooler is better.

Here is a simple primer that includes serving temperatures and the length of time you should chill a wine in the refrigerator if the bottle has been stored at room temperature:

Champagne and Sparkling Wines - 45-50°F (2-3 Hours)
Inexpensive White Wines and Sweet Wines-50-55°F (90 Minutes- 2 Hours)
Good Dry White Wines- 55-60°F (45 Minutes- 90 Minutes)
Lighter Red Wines- 60-65°F (30-45 Minutes)
Bigger Red Wines- 65-68°F (20-30 Minutes)