Broadbentism: 1983 Gruaud-Larose

"Started off with a bang. Alongside the '81 positively opulent. Then it seemed to go through a stage of puberty, finally emerging as a fully fledged, and fleshed adolescent... Last noted at a Saintsbury dinner, Oct. 2002. **** Lively but drink soon." MB

Calling All Wine Geeks

I had to smile when I saw Wine for Dragons latest post about the "Top Ten Signs You're a Wine Geek." Credited to the Sideways Wine Club, I have to admit the first four are dead on. The rest are really a bit too tongue-in-cheek. But any good wine geek could find at least one more to round out his score. Here are a couple from the list that hit the nail on the head.

1. You read wine blogs. (Actually, the list could end right here!)

2. You laughed when Miles said "If anybody orders Merlot, I'm leaving!", then mentioned his prize bottle was the famous merlot blend, Cheval Blanc

3. When holding a goblet of water, you absent-mindedly twirl it by its stem (this "Tasters Twitch" is a condition common among wine Geeks, for which there is no cure)

4. You have a strong (and unquestionably correct) opinion about point-based rating systems and what they are doing to the wine industry

5. You get more upset by the loss of spilled wine than the tablecloth stain it caused.

There is nothing like a list (just ask Letterman or the people at Forbes) so, we decided to add some gems from our own wine drinking experience. So, here are some from Bon Vivant's home office...

1. You aerate or chew on almost any liquid you put in your mouth.

2. You typically stand around wine stores gazing at bottles for up to 30 minutes before making your purchasing decision.

3. You look at a wine list for an inordinate amount of time while your dining party talks around you.

4. When you talk about clones, you are not talking about Star Trek or anything with an ambiguous moral dilemma.

5. You have or have had a container full of corks used as home decoration.

6. When you talk about hang time, you are not discussing a football punt or kick.

7. You know who any of these people are and/or what they do: Bob Levy, James Laube, Michel Rolland, Angelo Gaja, Helen Turley, Serena Sutcliffe, Heidi Barrett, Stéphane Derencourt, Christian Moueix, Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta or Michael Broadbent (Bonus geekdom if you know them all- just step away from the wine bottle slowly and no one will get hurt)

How'd you do? Pretty much answering in the affirmative for any of these items gets you in the club, so welcome to the family.

Two Pinot Noir Hits for Special Occasions

Pinot Noir is a finicky grape. It is thin-skinned, demanding and inconsistent. (I see you comparing it to some of the relatives you saw over Thanksgiving!) At its best, however, Pinot Noir can be hauntingly elegant and complex. The key to a good Pinot Noir is an even better producer, someone who can tame that persnickety berry into a multifaceted, memorable wine.

I had two Pinot Noirs from two such producers over the weekend. Although not inexpensive, they represent some of the best of what is inherent to Burgundian Pinots as well as California Pinots, showcasing the style and potential of each region.

The first was the 2002 Perrot-Minot Gevrey Chambertin. This is a village wine from the Gevrey Chambertin appellation in Burgundy, France and, as such, is a bit overpriced at $60. The excellent 2002 vintage is commanding high prices across the board and, given the bottle was for my wine-loving uncle and Perrot-Minot is known for quality wines in the classic Burgundian style, I decided to buy it anyway. I was not disappointed — and neither was my uncle or anyone else around the table for that matter.

The wine is elegant with seamless balance and a beautifully delicate floral fragrance. The palate is more powerful, as is typical with Gevrey Chambertin, and the wine has a very fine, silky mouthfeel. The characteristic cherry and earth flavors are there along with intricate layers of flavor and a long smooth finish. The refreshing but not overbearing acidity makes it a great match for food with which it was meant to be drunk. This is classic Burgundy in the traditional sense.

2002 Perrot-Minot Gevrey Chambertin Report Card

Intensity: B+
Complexity: A
Balance & Structure: A
Current Grade: A
Peak Grade: A


The second Pinot Noir tasted this weekend was the 2003 Testarossa Pinot Noir Gary's Vineyard from California, also priced at $60. I had always been a fan of Gary’s Vineyard (which is located in the coastal Santa Lucia Highlands area of California) although I had not tasted the Pinot in years. I remembered it fondly as a good California Pinot Noir — more obvious fruit and body than Burgundy Pinots but not overly sweet or heavy like some Cali Pinots. True to form, the 2003 is made in a subdued and silky style but with the ripe fruit you expect from sunny California. The aroma is intensely cherry and the palate plush and sweet, balanced by a fresh acidity. You can sense a bit of the oak on the palate but it is well rounded and serves to give the wine a nice toasty character. The wine is well balanced and a nice match for a wide range of foods. This is a great pick if you enjoy Red Burgundy but want to try something from the U.S. —something that does not stray too far from the French style.

2003 Testarossa Pinot Noir Gary's Vineyard Report Card

Intensity: A
Complexity: B+
Balance & Structure: A
Current Grade: A
Peak Grade: A

Vino Girl says cheers to being finicky!

Back from Outer Space

First I was afraid- I was petrified
Kept thinking I could never live without you by my side
But I spent so many nights thinking how you did me wrong
I grew strong- I learned how to carry on
and so you're back
from outer space
I just walked in to find you here with that sad look upon your face
I should have changed my stupid lock
I should have made you leave your key
If I had known for just one second you'd be back to bother me
-Gloria Gaynor, I Will Survive

Yes it has been quite a while, what with the Thanksgiving holiday and all. I suspect some of you may feel like Gloria Gaynor right now, but the good news is we have worked through the last of the tryptophan and are ready go. We've got lots of fun stuff in works. Tanned, rested, and ready as Nixon would say.

I thought I'd start us off with a bevy of wine notes taken during a killer Pichon-Lalande vertical dinner held here in New York. Sadly, the Pichon notes are destined to dock at another port, but hopefully some of the pre-dinner wines will satisfy your appetites until a certain site is ready to go.

We hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving here in the U.S. or a great Thursday through Sunday for the rest.

1999 Moet & Chandon Brut Champagne
A nice if generic bottle of bubbly. Standard Champagne flavors and aromas, if somewhat one dimensional, but very little froth and buzz in the mouth. Almost a bit flat, it should have been better- especially for such a good vintage overall. Pass on this one as there are a number of other Champagnes at this price point that would fit the bill better. (TS)

Intensity: B+
Complexity: C
Balance & Structure: C
Current Grade: C
Peak Grade: C


1985 Dom Perignon Champagne
1985 was an excellent vintage in Champagne and I was looking forward to seeing how this wine fared. Sadly, my wine was accidentally pulled before I had time to finish it. Fortunately, I had milked my glass for most of the evening enjoying its rich almost chewy complexity. An aromatically intense Champagne, it had a nice froth and mouthfeel. Lemon curd, honeyed lemon and earth mingled with other flavors that became more evolved as the wine opened. This is an eminently “round” wine through out- full in every aspect with a long finish and no holes. Enjoy! (TS)

Intensity: A
Complexity: A
Balance & Structure: A+
Current Grade: A+
Peak Grade: A+

1997 Domaine Weinbach Gewurztraminer, Cuvée Théo, Clos des Capucins (Alsace)
A solid Gewurz that got caught up against a Sauternes that showed much better with the foie gras. The wine was very fragrant and aromatic, a hallmark of the Gewurztraminer grape- especially from such an ideal vintage. It was unfortunately a tad flat on the palate. Good mouth coverage and length made up for it a little, but perhaps we were tasting it just a bit too late in its life cycle. (TS)

Intensity: A
Complexity: B
Balance & Structure: B
Current Grade: B
Peak Grade: PP (Past Peak)

1970 Chateau Sigalas-Rabaud (Sauternes sweet wine)
Make no mistake- this is foie gras wine. Unbelievably rich and nutty it matched perfectly with the foie gras and all its accompaniments. Aromatically tight in the beginning it needs some time to open, so make sure you pop it early and don’t serve it too chilled. The 1970 harvest was ripe yet its grapes were lacking in acidity and unfortunately this wine holds true to the vintage. There is no real acid to match against the richness making the whole wine feel a bit dead in your mouth. An interesting flavor profile and full wine nonetheless. I would open this now and not wait any longer. (TS)

Intensity: A
Complexity: A
Balance & Structure: C
Current Grade: B+
Peak Grade: PP

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Ed. Note:

A Quick Explanation on Wine Notes and Grades.

We realize that descriptors can be useful and we do use them but as a part of our wine writing philosophy, we try our best to de-emphasize the crazy wine speak that goes on in the industry. (Alder over at Vinography has an interesting piece I just commented on) Instead, we try to give the reader an idea of a wine’s style in relation to its vintage, region, varietal make-up, and producer.

Our grading system is a modified version of standard school grades (A+, A, B+, B and C – do you really care that a wine is a C+? we didn’t think so either).

We believe that a wine can be objectively defined by its intensity and complexity, as well as the most import component- its balance and structure. As such, we have separately scored these attributes in a “report card” along with our Current Grade (or how good the wine was when we tasted it) and our Peak Grade (or how good we believe the wine will be at its best). Trust us, it sounds more complicated than it is.

FYI, it's a work in progress so bear with us and since these are not red Bordeaux varietals, I may have given them short shrift compared to our non-blog notes, so beware. We hope you find the notes at least entertaining if not useful. Cheers!

Thanksgiving Wine Fact

Did you know that Americans consume more wine on Thanksgiving than on any other day of the year? We trust you will do your part.

Have a safe and happy holiday. Cheers! - The Bon Vivant Editorial Team

Broadbentism: 1971 Chateau Lafite Rothschild

"Frankly, 20 not very complimentary notes. Most recently, a tart bottle at Brooks's, a strange nose, feeble but pleasant enough. Fortunately, we had something better to follow." * MB

Knockout Zins

Yesterday I went to do some Thanksgiving wine shopping at Le Du’s Wines, a charming retail shop way over on Washington Street between Leroy and Morton in the far West Village. Le Du happened to be having a “Zinsgiving” tasting when I arrived, complete with seven bottles of the all-American grape and some blues guitar for entertainment. Although I usually celebrate my Thanksgiving sans the Zin, it couldn’t hurt to grab a glass and do some tasting while I shopped around.

If you are a fan of huge, super-extracted, high octane, punch-in-the-face wines, these Zins are most definitely for you. Holy Smokes! The wines ranged from the $12 Renwood from Sierra Foothills, California to the $40 Old Ghost from Lodi. My favorites (although I did not purchase any of them) were the Ravenswood ‘Big River’ Zinfandel and the Stuhlmuller, both from Alexander Valley and both made in a lighter style — more of a quick jab than a full on punch. The Marietta ‘Angeli’, also from Alexander Valley, blindsided me, like a powerful uppercut to your palate. Sure enough, 15.7% alcohol. I had to perform a standing 8 count to ensure that I could continue.

Although the 2004 Renwood was a bit thin and grapey, the other wines were well made and nicely structured. To say that this is not my particular style of wine would be an understatement but if you are a fan of that humongous “Turley” style of Zinfandel, you should put these on your wish list and give them a try. Personally, I would stay away from drinking them with turkey and stuffing and relegate them to cocktail hour. Oh, and pack a toothbrush.

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2004 Renwood; Sierra Foothills; $12.99. Simple and grapey. Average wine.

2003 Ravenswood ‘Big River’; Alexander Valley; $31.99. Mouthwatering blue and black fruit. Nice acid and balance. For fans of a lighter style Zin.

2003 Chiarella ‘Giana’; St. Helena, Napa Valley; $34.99. Powerful, jammy fruit and spice. High alcohol and a bit overwhelming. You can find better at this price.

2004 Stuhlmuller; Alexander Valley; $25.99. Clean berry fruit and spice. Complex, nice balance and acidity keeps it fresh and not overpowering. For fans of a lighter style but with more layers than the Ravenswood. Personal favorite. BEST BUY.

2002 Marietta ‘Angeli’; Alexander Valley; $31.99. Wowza! This will get your palate’s attention. 8% Petite Sirah in the blend, which only adds to its force. Rich fruit and lots of spice. Port-like. Too much for me but if you like a whopper of a wine; it is fairly well balanced given all the alcohol.

2004 Elyse ‘Morisoli’; Napa; $37.99. Dense fruit and smoke. Full-bodied, soft mouthfeel. Big extraction - almost Syrah-like. Not as memorable as some of the other huge zins but well made nonetheless.

2004 Old Ghost; Lodi; $41.99. Big, syrupy red fruit and chocolate. Spicy finish. Massive and port-like but well balanced. May pair well with some dark chocolate.

Wine Bar NYC - Park Blue

The semi-regular juice on New York City’s growing wine bar scene

Park Blue
Midtown West
158 West 58th Street bet. 6th and 7th Aves.
(212) 247-2727
Hours: Monday through Tuesday 5pm-2am, Wednesday through Saturday 5pm-3am (really 4am)

New York has seen the rise of the half bottle in wine bars around town. It is a format that we enjoy quite a bit since you can try twice as many wines for about the same price. One particular wine bar of note is the late night lounge Park Blue located across from the back of the Essex House.

This classy little haunt is located incredibly close to our offices and as such we have been enjoying its food and wine since it opened last year. Unfortunately, it's been a while since we've been there since we are notorious for spending way too much money and having far too good a time (especially on a weeknight.) Luckily for you, owner Fonda Tsironis has been able to maintain the place in our absence.

With over 100 different labels, the bar has an interesting and eclectic selection of only half bottles from excellent and sometimes culty producers. Fonda is a true wine lover and does not fill his list with plonk. In fact, if you are a true wine geek (like us) ask if he has any interesting "off the list" selections-- and if he does, grab them before they're gone. Now your pocketbook might smart from all the wines you taste (it's amazing that some people are put off by a $50 bottle but are happy to purchase a bunch of $30 half bottles) so we recommend going the whole distance and stuffing your gullet full of food from Eric Simeon's kitchen. His small plates, while a touch pricey, are worth every penny. Our call is to wait until after 11pm to get a hold of his decandent Lobster Eggs Benedict (pictured.)

The bar's location and grown-up demeanor make it a good choice for an after work rendezvous and New York foodies should already know this is where hoi poloi can mingle late night with the midtown restaurant scene as chefs pile in when each of their respective establishments close.

So kick back, listen to the jazz and order another (half) bottle.

Broadbentism: 1985 Chateau Mouton Rothschild

"Alas at the 15th Grand Awards banquet in New York. I found it 'surprisingly chunky and uncharming. Expected better'. The filet mignon was excellent, so it must have been all the chatter and noise in the Marriot Marquis ballroom. Or it might just have been me, because at my Bordeaux Club dinner in January 1996 I described the bouquet as 'exotic, lovely Cabernet Sauvignon, and at 9.40pm very fragrant'. Note the time: I had drawn the cork at 4.30pm, decanted it at 5.40pm and served it at 8.50pm. I also served Pol Roger '34 and '88; Laville Haut Brion '89; Cheval Blanc, Lafite and Mouton - all '85s; Lafite '59 (the best of the lot) and Suau, an '85 Barsac. Oh, and Hine Grande Champagne '66, landed '67, bottled '82. Just odd bottles. I don't have a great cellar." ***** An exciting wine at the top but not yet over it. Will continue recklessly for another ten years or more. MB

I'll Give You a Hawaiian Punch

Well, wine lovers, I am happy to report that a movie focused on vineyards and wine and all things good and grape has hit theaters as of November 10^th. Why am I so happy? Because maybe, just maybe, people will for the love of god stop talking about Sideways. I have had it up to here with references to Miles and Merlot and Pinot Noir and expensive Bordeaux with fast food burgers. Enough already.

The new movie, called A Good Year, stars Russell Crow who plays a British investment broker who moves to Provence when he inherits a vineyard from his late uncle. The clever tag line is “everything matures…eventually” (perhaps even Russell Crow) but the movie is apparently ripe for criticism. Besides the fact that reviews have slammed the film (Decanter calls it “an absolute dog”) rumor has it that it is not very kind to California wine producers. One quote, from the Napa Valley Register, has a character in the move exclaiming, “In California they don’t make wine, they make Hawaiian Punch.” Nice, real nice. That’s all the California wine industry needs — a gullible public listening to that nonsense.

Vino Girl will go see the movie despite the negative reviews. To all those California winemakers out there — let the games begin. At least it will give us something to talk about besides Sideways!

Broadbentism: 1966 Chateau Haut-Batailley

"Yet another delicious meal, this time lunch at Sandricourt, after another dusty and grimy few hours in the cellar. Asked to choose a wine, I brought up a bottle of the Haut-Batailley...Marvellously refreshing - perhaps because I earned it!" Last tasted May 1995 **** - MB

Wine Blog List Update

Holy moly wine lovers! Your winemonkey has been off his game. Looks like an email forwarding glitch has made me look like I just don't care.

But care I do, people. We can't be having the wine readership searching God's green earth (or at least google) for missing wine blogs. I feel your pain and the glitch has been fixed.

So check out the latest in wine blog headlines at the The Wine Blog List and note the plethora of new blogs to keep track of. If you want to see any added to the list, just send them to me and we'll give them the once over.

Get your wine reading fix before its too late!

Mark Your Calendars: Beaujolais Nouveau Day

Well, wine lovers, get your palates ready because Beaujolais Nouveau Day is right around the corner. This Thursday in fact! If you can read between the lines, maybe you sense my sincere lack of excitement. This day has become such an overblown marketing phenomenon that any anticipation or air of celebration that it may have had back in the day in France has dissipated. In the early days, the local village revelers poured pitchers of the stuff right from the grower's barrels to celebrate the new harvest. Now that sounds like fun.

These days it means signs in every wine store and restaurant window exclaiming Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé! It is a day of berets and bicycles and Georges Duboeuf. The date has been changed three times since the celebration's inception and this latest date (the third Thursday in November) was agreed upon by the French government as well as retailers and distributors around the world as a way to move the celebration closer to the weekend and squeeze as much out of the young grape juice as possible.

I hate to sound like a curmudgeon - I know as well as anybody that wine is meant to be fun - but I think I will take a pass this year. If you are going to join in the festivities, just remember, drink that wine on Thursday or within the year for sure, serve it slightly chilled — and, by all means, don't forget the beret. A votre sante!

Broadbentism: 1961 Chateau Petrus

"...a 'railroad chairman's wine' - which sounded a rather old-fashioned expression: well an oil-rich potentate or tycoon's wine, for the reason you do not have to be an expert to appreciate this wine, you wallow in it; and you must have to have that sort of wealth to have it in your cellar, let alone to order it in a restaurant. But I must stop being condescending." ***** and no end in sight. MB

The Big Cheese

Just a quick post to let you in on a little (not quite secret) tip. Vinogirl met up with a good friend at Artisanal Restaurant in NYC last night, a glorified French bistro known for their massive cheese selection. It was an annual get together for our husband's November birthdays and, although certainly aware of the occasion, I didn’t mention any such thing when I made the reservation. In fact, I went the no hassle route and used Open Table.

As the hostess showed us to our table, we passed by families with young children and a bachelorette bash (the veil clued us in), all of us holding our breath in hopes that we would not be seated near either party. When we were led in to the cheese cave, a small private room where you are literally surrounded by wheels of cheese, everyone looked at me as if I had planned it. I hadn’t, as you know, but was certainly ready to take credit after they kept insisting that I must have done something. While someday I hope that the mere mention of my name will send people running to accommodate ('the best of the best, vino girl is here!') that is certainly not the case today.

The cheese cave was a great surprise and an even better place to dine with friends on a special occasion. The bistro is loud and you can actually have a conversation in there. If you have a small party (the cave seats up to 5 people) it is worth requesting. You normally have to call in advance to request the room but it just so happens that the party that had it "reserved" decided to sit near the windows. Too pungent perhaps?!

While you are not required to order cheese when seated in the cheese cave, it's hard to resist. We ordered a 6-cheese plate and paired it with the 2004 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz-Viognier from Austalia. The winery is a joint venture between Anthony Terlato of Napa winemaking fame and Michael Chapoutier of Rhone renown. Although we overpaid for it (Artisanal's wine list is notoriously overpriced) it was a beautifully silky wine with lots of fresh ripe fruit and spice. My first remark was "I hope you like bacon in your wine" and we all agreed that it was in there, along with a dash of smoke. You can find it for around $20 at retail ( I hesitate to tell you that we paid about $56) and I would recommend it for something different with plenty of personality. A "best buy" for sure!

Ok, so it wasn't a short post. I think all that wine and cheese went to my head!

2004 Bishop's Peak Paso Robles Rock Solid Red

Here's an unsolicated wine submission (sweet!) that we thought we would pass on to you.

The wine is positioned as something you shouldn't think too much about and just enjoy, so naturally we deconstructed it as best we could and analyzed it to death.

Had during lunch with BBQ, this Cab-Syrah blend has a powerful nose of berries, vanilla and oak that screams central coast. You will not mistake this wine for anything but a Cali wine. Ripe and forward it is devoid of varietal character (which may be good for some people.) On the palate it promises a big masculine style, but fails to deliver past the mid palate. It's hot yet its body, partially derived from its alcohol, dissipates in your mouth, thinning out the fruit. The balance is a bit off and structure is limited at best.

Don't get us wrong - this is not a 'bad' wine, nor is it tutti fruiti, it is an easy going wine you don't have to think to much about. In fact, at $12 it is a good pick for a book club or similar such occasion. It is a wine that is in the back ground -- in other words, the conversation will take center stage over the wine. Twist open this wine now, but you may want to give it a little time to let the alcohol burn off before digging in- but don't let it sit too long.

Report Card:
Intensity: B+
Complexity: B
Balance: B
Current Grade: B
Peak Grade: B

Editor's Note: The Report Card system and the style of the note is the way we evaluate wines for Bon Vivant. We will discuss this in more detail in future posts as well as on the official website. Also note, we are incredibly hard graders- think of us as the Russian judges at the wine Olympics.

Here is the company line:

BISHOP’S PEAK 2004 Rock Solid Red Paso Robles

BACKGROUND
The Rock Solid Red is a unique, multi-varietal red wine blend produced by the Talley family. Though the exact blend varies from year to year, cabernet sauvignon and syrah are often the predominant varietals. As with all wines produced under the Bishop’s Peak label, the goal is to make a handcrafted wine that reflects the distinctive characteristics of San Luis Obispo County vineyards.

VINEYARDS
The Bishop’s Peak 2004 Rock Solid Red is a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% syrah, 5% petite sirah, and 5% tempranillo. The cabernet sauvignon and syrah that dominate the blend were sourced from the Bill Rietkert’s Viña de Leon Vineyard, just outside Paso Robles near the Estrella River.

WINEMAKING Grapes from each of the vineyards were harvested at optimal ripeness. (eds. note: aren't they all- who gonna say they harvest unripe grapes?) All lots were fermented separately using native yeasts and aged in a combination of French and American Oak barrels. After 11 months, the cuvée was blended and bottled in December 2005. Just over 5,000 cases were produced.

TASTING NOTES This wine gives aromas of ripe red currants with nuances of smoke, vanilla, and rum cake. (eds. note: that's pretty spot on for once-no smoke but rum cake hits it) Big and full-bodied, this classic blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah displays a powerful set of fine tannins. (eds. note: we respectfully disagree) Enjoy this wine with beef, lamb chops or other savory meats grilled over an open fire.

www.bishopspeak.com

Wine Bar Quest - Bin 71

The semi-regular juice on New York City’s growing wine bar scene

Bin 71
Upper West Side
237 Columbus Ave. between 70th and 71st St.
Hours: Mon-Tue, 5pm-2am; Wed-Sun, noon-2am

Is the Upper West Side morphing into “wine central” New York City? That is a question we asked ourselves over lunch at the tiny wine bar, Bin 71, the other day.

There seems to be wine stores and wine bars popping up every other week in the land of Fairway shoppers and Bugaboo strollers. What gives? Well, although the postage stamp sized bar was not filled to capacity on this particular, incredibly rainy Wednesday afternoon, it seems that it is bursting with revelers trying to grab a spot at the u-shaped marble topped bar every evening of the week. Suffice to say, the UWS is ripe for anything grape these days.

The good news is that Bin 71 is a cozy yet sophisticated place to taste wine and experience the Italian cooking of the owner’s father, who is apparently the one making your meatballs in the tiny basement kitchen. There is a nice sized list of by-the-glass pours as well as a long one-page list of wines by the bottle. The list is interesting if not extensive and includes wines from around the world with an emphasis on Spain, France, Italy and the U.S. The bartenders are very familiar with everything on the list if you need some help deciding. In fact, everyone we met at Bin 71, including the proprieter, Lawrence Bondulich, was very cheerful and accommodating.

The bad news is that I have spoken to folks who live on the Upper West Side and, although they share my enthusiasm for Bin 71, they rarely make an attempt to go because it is always so crowded. Patience, my friends, patience. A little bird told us that Lawrence is soon to open another wine joint in the hood in the not so distant future.

As far as ordering wine, we would recommend staying away from the 2004 Coturri Grenache from Mendocino. We chose it because red wine seemed the best choice on such a damp day, Grenache is something different that we usually drink, and Coturri has a pretty good name in California. The wine is made with no sulfites and natural yeast and it just tasted funky (not really sure if one has anything to do with the other.) The wine had some good earth on the nose but the palate was tart and the fruit tasted a bit cooked. Perhaps it was an off bottle but we wouldn’t go there again regardless. Incidentally, the wine retails for about $25 and is on the Bin 71 list for $44 – not a bad markup, believe it or not.)

As an aside, there is a flat screen television (not something you find in most wine bars) if you want to catch the game!

The Celebritization of Wine

With all this talk of globalization and industrialization, is the celebritization of wine being overlooked? Mike (Da Bears) Ditka has rolled out his own label along with Mendocino Wine Company, joining the growing ranks of celebrities in the wine business.

If by chance you don’t remember Iron Mike as the notoriously angry, albeit very popular and successful, coach of the Chicago Bears, you may remember him from the Saturday Night Live sketch “Bill Swerski's Superfans.” In the skit Ditka was idolized by a group of sausage eating, beer drinking, heart-attack having Chicago fans toasting to "Da Bearss" all in a pitch perfect Chicagoan “dis” “dat” accent. All of this conjures up images of a civilized glass of wine, no?

Well, as Ditka himself will tell you, "Looks can be deceiving. I've drank red wine my whole life. There's no wine ever made that I didn't try." I guess only taste will tell. Choose from Ditka Da’ Coach Pinot Grigio, Mike Ditka Kick Ass Red or opt for Da Coach’s Chardonnay, Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Prices range from $10 for the Pinot Grigio to $50 for the red blend. Come on, you knew you would have to pay up to score some Kick Ass Red! You don’t have to wonder too much about the attack on that wine, a blend of Syrah, Petit Sirah and Zinfandel.

I suppose Ditka has as much right as anybody to make his own wine. After all, Dick Vermeil, also a previous NFL coach, is a partner in OnTheEdge Wines in Calistoga in Northern Napa Valley. I’ve tasted some of the OnTheEdge wines and well, let’s put it this way, he has a Super Bowl Ring but I am not sure he has all his Xs and Os in order when it comes to winemaking. Even some retired NFL players are in on the wine scene. Joe Montana partners with Ed Sbragia of Beringer fame to market a wine called Montagia, a Cabernet blend from Napa. (Let’s just hope that the “Juice” doesn’t get involved with the juice.)

The celebrity wine craze does not end with football – or sports for that matter. There are pro golfers, race car drivers, figure skaters, rockers, actors, and even porn stars getting in on the wine turf in one way or another. Here’s da scoop as best we know it:

• Carmen Policy, former executive of the San Francisco 49ers
• Bill Walsh, former 49ers Coach
• San Diego Chargers owner Alex Spanos
• Former Charger’s player Lou Kapscandy
• Golfers Greg Norman, Ernie Els, Mike Wier, Nick Faldo and Arnold Palmer
• Figure skater Peggy Fleming
• Race car drivers Jeff Gordon, Mario Andretti and Randy Lewis
• Actress Lorraine Bracco
• Actor Gerard Depardieu, and Fess Parker (of Davey Crockett fame)
• Rockers Vince Neil, Mick Fleetwood, Sting, Jerry Garcia and Bob Dylan
• Singer Olivia Newton John
• Porn Star Savanna Samson

Heard of any others? Go Bearss!

Broadbentism: 1945 Chateau Talbot

"Nothing but glowing notes from the start -- well not quite from the start, for I first tasted it lunching with Pierre Cordier, when he lived in splended semi-isolation (his wife Pierrette lived in grand style in Bordeaux) at the Chateau in 1976." ***** - MB

Wine Bar Quest - Bar Carrera

The semi-regular juice on New York City’s growing wine bar scene

BAR CARRERA
East Village
175 2nd Ave (at 11th Street)

Bar Carerra is Spanish. This fact alone should make you want to grab your amigos and head on down to the East Village – rapidamente! I say this because although there are plenty of tapas bars in NYC there are not many authentic Basque wine bars around town.

My impression is that Bar Carerra’s owners put a lot of thought into making the experience authentic from the gracious atmosphere, tiled walls and distinctive wine list to the simple tapas preparations. The décor is austere but not as clinically so as it’s next door neighbor Bar Veloce. Oddly enough, both wine bars are run by the same proprietor. With a name like Frederick Twomey I suspect he is neither Italian or Spanish but from the looks of both places I think he has a better handle on the Spanish bar scene (I have not been to many wine bars in Italy where they serve you Montepulciano in a lab coat!)

While the bar does not go so far as transport you to the Basque resort town of San Sebastian, it is a worthy escape from the ale houses and cowboy bars that litter the surrounding East Village. The bar is minute in size, so not a good place for a big group but for a nice glass of wine and a snack before dinner or a leisurely and convivial evening of wine and tapas the place cannot be beat.

In short, if you are looking for more casual Spanish vibe and less Patatas Bravas, Bar Carrera is the place for you. Salud!

Wine Bar Quest - Peasant Wine Bar

The semi-regular juice on New York City’s growing wine bar scene

PEASANT WINE BAR
AKA Cantina 194
Nolita
194 Elizabeth Street, between Prince & Spring

Perhaps Peasant figured out that being coy and calling their terrific little wine bar ‘Cantina 194’ after the address of the restaurant was not the best way to use their reputation to attract customers. At any rate, the bar is now referred to simply as Peasant Wine Bar.

The bar is located directly underneath the restaurant and you enter by following the stairs to the right of Peasant’s doorway. Although it may look like you are on your way to an abandoned basement, a warm and friendly atmosphere awaits you through the door at the bottom of the steps. The feel is ‘Italian Enoteca’ with communal tables, brick walls, non-scented white candles and a simple menu of no fuss foods. Although I must admit to being sick of all decent wine bars in NYC being Italian wine bars this one has the formula down right.

The perfect place to tuck in with a friend for a quick bite and a glass of wine, Peasant Wine Bar is also a great spot to settle in with a group and share a few bottles paired with cheeses, Italian cured meats and possibly a panini or two. The Italian wine list has some interesting selections and the descriptions provided should help even a wine novice navigate their way past the Prosecco and Chianti Classico.

PWB seems to be a popular spot for locals in the ‘hood but we think it’s worth a trip from anywhere in the City. Just grab the N/R to Prince Street or the 6 to Spring and raise a glass -- you won't get the 'boot' until 2 or 3am.

Broadbentism: 1990 Bollinger Grand Annee

"...In March 1999, I gave it my highest mark of the 25 top Champagnes at the Smag & Behag blind tasting in Copenhagen." ***** "A well-nigh perfect wine with another ten years to go." - MB

(Incidentally and in case you are wondering, I have solicited the help of a Danish friend to explain the Smag & Behag reference. I rather like the concept: Smag is Taste, Behag is Comfort. When used together it's about finding what's right for you/to your taste. Often when looking at both actual taste, your mood, and what you want to spend. Splendid and spot on, as MB might say!)

Bond & Bollinger

In addition to vodka Martinis, we hear that James Bond will again be drinking Bollinger Champagne in Casino Royale, due out November 17th. While Daniel Craig becomes only the second Englishman to portray Bond, Bollinger debuts in its 10th Bond film. The first time Bollinger appeared was in Moonraker in 1979.

Bollinger is undoubtedly one of our favorites - even better than stinger missles for unwinding after a rough day at the office!

So, 007, here's to your sparkling personality -- and your choice of Champagne.

Wine Critics Unite!

As reported by decanter.com and undoubtedly other news outlets, wine-journal.com's Neal Martin has gone up a level (we hear he's now a level 12 wine critic with a +3 palate or something) and is moving his operations to erobertparker.com. You go Neal. Congratulations! We will miss the wine-journal, but on to greener fields as they say.

It looks like the independent critics are being consumed by the wine machine. With Parker's updated website due to dazzle the masses, it looks like Bob has been slowly acquiring independent wine talent fashioned in his own mold. This is clearly a smart play by Bob and the powers that be. He has always said (as we recall) that the internet is where wine journalism and criticism is heading and we whole-heartedly agree. Web 2.0 has changed the landscape of how we get our wine information and how we use it.

The good news for yours truly is that with Antonio Galloni and Neal Martin out of the way, it paints a clearer picture of our place in the wine critic's pantheon. While the new additions may have achieved demi-god status sitting next to Zeus himself, we are relishing this consolidation of wine power as a paved path to defining ourselves as the wine Burger King to Bob's Mickey D's. Well perhaps it's more like White Castle -- for now.

In any case, we are waiting for Alder Yarrow over at Vinography to be given a sweet deal by the Spectator so that the last barriers to entry can be removed and we can take our rightful places on the dias.

Does anyone want fries with that?

Bon Vivant Wine Guide Update

If you have tried to visit either bonvivantguide.com or bonvivantwineguide.com lately you no doubt have experienced some problems. Yes, there is something amiss with The Bon Vivant Wine Guide.

But, fear not loyal wine lovers! All of these website shenanigans are happening because we are migrating to our new host and will be launching the site in the coming days. (Trust us, we can't believe it either.)

We are furiously adding tons of content to the guide and we hope you will be pleased with all the guide has to offer. Stay tuned right here at drinkthegoodstuff for more updates.

Barrels of Fun

Winemonkey and I attended a Christie's tasting of recent Burgundy vintages (1999 - 2004) which was a curtain raiser to the 145th Hospices de Beaune wine auction.

Hospices de Beaune Background

The Hospices de Beaune was founded in Burgundy, France in the 1400s as a hospital for the poor. I often wondered what this had to do with wine until I was told that most French hospitals own farms, forests or other buildings in the community. The Hospices Civils de Beaune happens to own a wine estate with more than 150 acres of vines. The original vineyards were a gift and the estate endures through donations and inheritances and, of course, the annual wine auction. Key to the auction's success is that most of the vineyards are first growths and great growths, the most prestigious of appellations in Burgundy.

The wine auction, which takes place on November 19th and 20th and is part of an annual festival in Burgundy, celebrates the first tasting of the new vintage. Wines are always auctioned by the barrel (24 cases) and are named after the Hospices benefactors.

Visions of White Burgundy Barrels Dance in our Heads

Although I hope that I can say a barrel of White Burgundy is in our future (can you say Batard-Montrachet?) it's not in the cards right now. In the meantime it is nice to keep up with the wines and the vintages and taste something other than Cabernet once in awhile. Although both Winemonkey and I have lost our taste for Red Burgundy somewhat, the white wines of Beaune are among the best -- if not the best -- white wines in the world. Don't get me wrong, if I could afford Clos de la Roche on a regular basis (The '02 Cuvee Georges Kritter is earthy and fruity with a silky texture) I would be drinking Red Burg everyday and twice on Sundays. The basic problem with Red Burgundy is the inconsistency -- there is quite a lot of disappointment involved.

We discovered some inspiring whites at the tasting, though. Our two favorites were the 2000 Batard-Montrachet-Cuvee Dames de Flanders (rich and intense) and the 2004 Meursault-Charmes Cuvee Albert Grivault (beautifully perfumed nose, nice minerality.) Having been impressed with 2004 White Burgs from the start, and particularly enjoying the Meursault at the tasting, we purchased a 2004 Girardin Meursault Les Charmes-Dessus at Morrell afterwards. Vincent Girardin is a consistently good producers and this is a lovely bottle of wine with good weight, nice minerality, and an abundance of citrus and tropical fruits.

Buy a Barrel
If you love Burgundy -- and happen to have the capital -- the Hospices de Beaune auction is a great opportunity to purchase a barrel. Even if your assets are running a little short, you can buddy up and bid as a group. Two hundred and eighty-eight bottles is enough to go around, right?!

Broadbentism: 1976 Chateau Margaux

"I would have imagined that the combination of Margaux and 1976 would have been a marriage made in heaven. Alas, at best a registry office matrimonial agreement. ***" MB

Of Vice and Men

Bring me more red wine. Oh, and a cheeseburger, some fries and a piece of chocolate cake.

In what has been called the “Holy Grail” of ageing research, a study by the Harvard Medical School and the National Institute on Aging shows that large amounts of a specific red wine ingredient bestows the benefits of being thin on overweight mice with bad eating habits. Now before you go uncork that bottle of red and start raiding the refrigerator with animal abandon, remember that this is a new study and has only been performed on little creatures thus far. On the other hand, we wine lovers should embrace any study that shows there are health benefits to drinking an overabundance of our favorite beverage. I figure if I am going to drink more and more red wine as I get older, why not pick up some residual positive effects along the way?

The “wine extract” study is exciting scientists and pharmaceutical companies alike. It has been reported that all 27 of the reputable researchers involved found the results promising. The red wine ingredient in question is called resveratrol (found in grape skins) and in heavy doses it enables mice on a “McDonald’s diet” to live longer, healthier lives with lower rates of diabetes, liver problems and other ailments related to ageing and high fat diets. While in the wrong hands this information could be scary (I can’t help but picture some old dude filling up 4 plates at the breakfast buffet and washing his resveratrol pill down with a bloody mary) the study can potentially increase the quality of life for those at risk for various diseases that come with ageing.

There may be some good news for those of us who don’t plan on being obese in our old age as well. Additional work is now being done to prove that the effects of resveratrol extend to “normal sized” mice too. As the study’s lead author Dr. David Sinclair of Harvard Medical School says, “It's not an excuse to overeat but, for mice at least, this shows you can be "fat, happy, healthy and vigorous.” Forget the supplement; just bring me another glass of red. I’ll skip the French fries — for now.

Linne Calodo Redux

I recently went back and reviewed a post where we discussed a single blind tasting of what turned out to be Linne Calodo's Outsider Zin blend vs. Rosenblum's Zin. I feel like a certain amount of explanation is in order as it seemed to me that we came off a bit harsh.

I recently had a chance to taste a considerable portion of the current releases from Linne Calodo and have to admit that the wines have a beautiful structure, balance, and mouthfeel that would be very appealing to any wine lover.

That is not to say the Outsider is not true to our original analysis. Actually, tasting much of their wine reinforces the Outsider's place as well-- an outsider. In the pantheon of well made wine that is Linne Calodo, the Outsider seems to be a bit too simple and too fruity in the nose and on the palate. It has, however, an underlying structure that comes closer to befiting its $45 price tag. This was a point I feel was forgotten in our amazement over how simple this wine was otherwise. At its heart this wine is much like Paso Robles, a little lost in its identity but certainly finding its way.

And yes, I did retaste the Outsider (at the winery mind you) and I was struck by the same impression as when vino girl and I tasted it the first time with the Rosenblum. It was an oddity among some very impressive wines.

Will this wine settle down aromatically and join up with its brethern? I find that hard to believe. Nonetheless, the wine found a sweet spot (no pun intended) with some of the peeps who were able to taste the dregs of vino girl's and my excess. Needless to say this is a good drinker and was deemed very enjoyable -- which just goes to show you that knowing (and being true to) yourself is the key to enjoying wine.

It's our job to give you the facts as best we can. It's your job to interepret them with respect to your own palate. And remember-- in the end its just wine. Cheers.

Wine Monkey to Wine Maker!

We know you have been waiting with bated-breath for more information on Taylor Senatore's escapades with the The Wine Makers-- the PBS show slated for release later next year. Well, wait no more super fans!

In what can only be described as a bizzare set of events, your favorite winemonkey was selected as a finalist for the wine-centric show and flown to Paso Robles to endure all forms of wine torture. Over the course of what seemed like forever to Taylor, but was more like a few days to the rest of us, the ruthless Doc City Productions (who Taylor believes ran the Marine Boot Camp at Parris Island before going into TV) put our boy through his paces with every conceivable wine production task.

Now, our managing editor is what we like to call a "delicate flower" when it comes to manual labor so we were quite surprised when we did not receive a call from our HMO concerning a co-payment. It looks like he was made up of stronger stuff than we had thought. Is there secretly an "S" hiding under those pocket squares and Clark Kent glasses?

Only time will tell, so get your TiVos and DVRs set to PBS and tell all your wine friends to get ready for a wild ride. We'll keep you posted.